Safari Stories

The Happy Herons of Manguo Swamp

Above: Grey Crowned Crane on its nest (not in Manguo Swamp because they don’t nest there)
Copyright: International Crane Foundation / Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership

Published: Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper 31 March 2018

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Fleur Ng’weno in green jacket who has started bird walks in Nairobi in February 1971 and still at it – Manguo Swamp March 2018 Copyright Rupi Mangat

It’s a cold and rainy March morning but some of us need to escape the dull city skies. So meeting the Nature Kenya friends for the regular third Sunday of the month (including Wednesday mornings) that have gone on uninterrupted since the eminent Fleur Ng’weno started them in February 1971, we settle on Manguo Swamp.

There are two reasons for this.

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Nestled in Naivasha

Published: Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper 24 March 2018

Above: Hippos ashore. Copyright Rupi Mangat

It’s late returning to Nairobi from upcountry. We find a campsite to spend the night on the fringes of the freshwater Lake Naivasha, the highest of the Great Rift Valley lakes in Kenya. There’s just enough daylight for a walk around the papyrus-lined shore with the hippos honking, preparing to come ashore to dine for the night.

The papyrus ruffles in the evening breeze. It is an amazing plant. Ancient Egyptians used it to make their scrolls that today show their ancient past. In terms of eco-services, the papyrus is home to wildlife like fish, birds and hippos. The green plant also stabilizes water levels and moderates temperatures around lakes and rivers. Yet today there’s less than 10 per cent around Lake Naivasha.

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The Story of Gedi

Published: Saturday Magazine, Nation newspaper 17 March 2018

Above: The Palace in Gedi  Copyright Rupi Mangat

In the eventide, a skein of white wings glide over the blue of Watamu Bay to settle on the huge jagged Hemingway rock. Curious, l zoom in on the birds that appear as dots with the naked eye, l get my shots and send them to the birders.

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Grey Plovers (Pluvialis squatarola) that breed in the Arctic Circle at Watamu bay February 2018 – flying in to breed here after a flight of 7000 km Copyright Rupi Mangat

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Amazing Arror

Published:Saturday magazine Nation newspaper 10 March 2018

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The water furrows rush down the Cherangani Hills ay Arror Copyright Rupi Mangat

Water gushes down the hills of the Cheranganis at Arror. It’s picturesque in the setting sun with the village kids escorting us to the centuries-old furrows that were dug by their ancestors for fresh water to reach the dry plains.

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Migration in Mara

Published June 2014 Saturday Magazine, Nation newspaper

Above: Wildebeest put their heads together in the Maasai Mara. Photo/Rupi Mangat

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Photo/Rupi Mangat. We got a front row view of the world-famous annual wildebeest migration at the

It’s finally here. The time we all wait for. Thousands of wildebeest are streaming into the Mara, a massive mass of comical gnus grunting and snorting, chomping down the grass and creating a feast for the carnivores. It’s the annual migration.

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Lions at the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Photo/Rupi Mangat

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