A safari to explore Rwanda’s famous Virunga mountains to see the Mountain gorillas will have you enchanted and fascinated by the diversity of life in this tropical paradise.
Imagine waking up in the land of a thousand hills which is home to our nearest cousins – the Mountain gorillas and Chimpanzees. After hiking in the lush tropical rainforests of the Virunga’s, you will be on game drives in search of the big cats and Africa’s amazing wildlife from rhinos to giraffes.
The island country lying off the south-eastern coast of Africa is the only home of the lovable lemurs. Our adorable cousins – for they are primates just like us – come in all shapes and sizes with over a 100 species. Your days in Madagascar will be filled with spotting as many as you can.
The world’s fourth largest island and the second-largest island country broke off the supercontinent Gondwana 150 million years ago that separated the Madagascar-Indian landmass from Africa.
A bit more shaking around the Earth’s core saw Madagascar finally split off from the Indian tectonic plate 70 million years later.
Isolated on the Indian Ocean, its flora and fauna developed independently creating 98% endemism – meaning what you see is only in Madagascar and nowhere else in the world.
Let’s discover Madagascar, one of the world’s top ten biodiversity hotspots.
Island History
Slightly larger than France, the tropical island boasts surreal ocean life to ravishing forests that are, of course home to the lemurs and so much more.
Its capital and largest city is Antananarivo affectionally known as Tana.
With 28 million islanders, Malagasy and French are spoken by ethnic groups of Malayo-Indonesian, mixed African and Malayo-Indonesian, and people with an Arab ancestry.
Archaeological research in the 20th century found evidence that human settlers reached Madagascar about five centuries before Europeans discovered the island. Malay-Indonesian seafarers arrived around the first century CE, Arabians followed in the sixth century and established trading posts there.
Here’s what we have planned for you.
DAY ONE Wed 19 August
Arrive in Tana.
Our Airport Meet and Assist Service ensures the most seamless arrival for our guests. Upon completing customs formalities, a dedicated representative will be there to assist you with various tasks, such as currency exchange, obtaining a local SIM card, setting up data on your SIM, and addressing any other requirements you may have. To ensure your convenience, we recommend handling currency exchange and SIM card acquisition before departing the airport.
A visitor’s visa is required and issued on arrival at Tana Airport for 10 euro for up to 13 days and 35 euro for 14 – 30 days.
Transfer by road to La Varangue Hotel.
La Varangue
This is a charming guest house in the centre of an upscale neighbourhood of the capital. Fruit of the marriage of Malagasy and colonial style architecture, this house offers the proximity of the commercial district of Antaninarenina.
Charm with genuine hospitality are the order of the day, the smiles and the competence of the team will make you appreciate the good life, typical of the “Big Island”. This hotel offers unique decoration, and an outstanding collection of antiques will amaze you and transport you to the past.
Embark on an unforgettable journey through the picturesque landscapes of Madagascar by driving from Antananarivo to Andasibe. This 140-kilometer route will take you on an adventure through verdant forests, charming towns, and rural villages.
Your experienced driver will ensure a comfortable and safe ride, while your English-Speaking guide will provide you with interesting insights about the local culture and traditions.
Madagascar Countryside
1 p.m. – Lunch at Vakona Forest Lodge
Overlooking its beautiful old established gardens, enjoy the delicious foods of the island before meeting the lemurs.
Lemurs Island – After lunch, you will enjoy an amazing personal experience with the lemurs in the lodge’s private reserve. It is a short walk from Vakona restaurant to a small rainforest of VOIMMA, which is protected by a local guides association.
Afternoon with lemurs
After your first meeting with the lemurs we will depart for Manjarano Lodge & Spa, a 20 minute drive.
Manjarano Lodge & Spa
Indulge in luxury, tranquillity, and a seamless blend of European standards and natural beauty at Manjarano Lodge & Spa.
Manjarano Lodge & Spa
This exquisite Manjarno is a haven of comfort, elegance, and serenity, nestled in the heart of the magnificent Andasibe forest.
The lodge offers a serene retreat, where you can unwind and rejuvenate amidst the captivating sights and sounds of the wilderness.
From the moment you arrive, the lodge’s impeccable service and attention to detail will ensure a memorable stay. Indulge in luxurious accommodations that provide the perfect blend of comfort and sophistication. The stylishly appointed rooms offer a serene sanctuary, allowing you to unwind and recharge after a day of exploration with captivating nature walks, where you can encounter unique wildlife, including lemurs, birds, and a myriad of endemic flora and fauna.
6 p.m. – We will be escorted on a short night walk to see some of the nocturnal creatures. Grading of the trails is easy. Be sure to pack a strong torch with some spare batteries for night walks.
8 p.m. – Dinner
Indulge in delectable culinary experiences at the lodge’s restaurant, where skilled chefs blend local and international flavours to create a gastronomic journey that delights the senses.
After breakfast, a short drive will bring us to the captivating wonders of Analamazaotra, home to the most popular park within the reserve. This enchanting destination holds a special allure, primarily due to the presence of the rare indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur. Throughout the misty forest, the indri’s haunting and unforgettable wail resonates, creating an otherworldly ambiance that can be experienced throughout the day, but most prominently in the early morning. With approximately 60 resident family groups, each consisting of two to five indris, you’ll have ample opportunities to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
While the indris steal the spotlight, the park is teeming with an array of other remarkable lemur species. Keep your eyes peeled for sightings of woolly lemurs, grey bamboo lemurs, red-fronted lemurs, black-and-white ruffed lemurs, and diademed sifakas, which are among the largest lemur species. In 2005, the Goodman’s mouse lemur, identified as a distinct species, was discovered here, further adding to the park’s biodiversity.
As you explore, you’ll also encounter eleven species of tenrec, the vibrant and immense Parson’s chameleon, and an impressive array of seven other chameleon species. Additionally, the park boasts over 100 bird species, 20 species of amphibians, and the endemic Ravenea louvelii palm tree, which is found exclusively within its boundaries.
You will enjoy the Indri 2 trail which encompasses the lakes and extends to the domains of two separate indri families and takes around 3 hours.
To witness the indris in their most active state, the early morning hours, specifically from 7 a.m. (park gates open at 0800) to 11 a.m., are the optimal time. Prepare to be enchanted by their calls and observe their graceful movements through the forest canopy, creating a truly mesmerising experience.
After lunch, we embark on a four hour drive (170kms) from Andasibe back to Antananarivo, offering you a captivating view of the breathtaking Angavo mountain ranges that demarcate the boundary between two distinct climate zones. As we traverse the picturesque landscapes, you’ll be greeted by charming villages that dot the route, each adorned with bustling markets teeming with vibrant energy. This presents the perfect opportunity for you to capture mesmerising photographs that encapsulate the region’s natural beauty and cultural essence.
Prepare to be amazed on your journey with a stop at the captivating Madagascar Exotic Park, owned by the renowned Peyrieras family. Situated on National Road N2 between the towns of Manjakandriana and Moramanga, approximately 75km (47mi) east of Antananarivo, this privately run park is a must-visit destination for wildlife enthusiasts.
Founded and owned by André Peyreiras, a French entomologist and naturalist, the park is also known as the Reserve Peyrieras or Peyrieras Butterfly Farm. Here, you’ll have the chance to witness the feeding of chameleons and observe a range of other fascinating reptiles, including iguanas, geckos, frogs, and crocodiles. The park is also home to the giant Atlas Moth, as well as a variety of butterfly species and tenrecs.
As you enter several large, caged buildings and greenhouses, accompanied by a knowledgeable park guide, you’ll be transported into a world of Malagasy fauna that will leave you in awe. With countless photo opportunities, the Madagascar Exotic Park is the perfect location to learn about Madagascar’s unique wildlife and to witness some of its most remarkable creatures up close. Don’t miss out on this extraordinary experience that will make your Madagascar trip truly unforgettable!
6 p.m. – We will arrive at Relais des Plateaux Hotel & Spa.
Relais des Plateaux Hotel
Situated a stone’s throw from Ivato Airport, the Relais des Plateaux hotel in Antananarivo offers utmost convenience with its complimentary shuttle service to both the airport and the city center. As you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a 24-hour reception, ensuring round-the-clock assistance for your comfort and peace of mind.
The hotel’s tropical garden provides a tranquil oasis, inviting you to unwind and immerse yourself in the serene surroundings.
8 p.m. – Dinner.
Indulge your taste buds at the buffet-style restaurant, adorned with charming, exposed beams, where you can savour a delightful array of culinary delights.
After which, enter your elegant room which overlooks the captivating gardens.
Time permitting, enjoy a dip in the heated swimming pool, where you can bask in the gentle warmth while lounging on comfortable sun lounges. The hotel staff is known for their friendliness and warm hospitality, dedicated to providing top-notch service and ensuring your stay is both comfortable and memorable.
DAY FOUR Sat 22 August
8 a.m. Start your day with a wholesome island breakfast before the flight to Nosy Be. Your hotel, the Relais des Plateaux, will manage your transfer today.
On arrival in Nosy Be you will be met and transferred to Ravinstra Wellness Hotel, a blend of nature and luxury on the west coast, famous for its stunning sunsets.
Spend the day on the beach, snorkelling or just relaxing with a good book.
Perhaps enjoy a massage or other treatments.
DAY SIX Sun 23 August
Nosy Antsoa and Nosy Iranja
Enjoy an early breakfast before boarding your boat for your first adventure.
Heading south we stop at Nosy Antsoa for a quick swim and a guided walk through the forest to see up to seven species of lemur.
From here we head on to Nosy Iranja.
Two islands at high tide but one, joined by a 750m sandy spit, at low tide.
Nosy Iranja has often been voted the most beautiful of Indian Ocean Islands and deservedly.
Metal lighthouse built by Gustave Eiffel in 1909 . Credit Tato Grasso
On arrival take a walk up to Gustav Eiffel’s lighthouse to enjoy the spectacular view of the island. Explore the village, walk along the spit (take water and a hat!) and if you are lucky you might witness turtles hatching.
After an ice-cold drink at the ‘Tiki Bar’ you will enjoy a fabulous lunch before returning to Nosy Komba.
Nosy Tanikely is a tiny, uninhabited island surrounded by patches of shallow coral and sandy beaches.
Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve
Nosy Tanikely means “island of the little land”.
This natural aquarium is famous for its marine reserve teeming with underwater flora and fauna. It offers superb snorkelling in warm waters with great visibility. You can discover angelfish, clown fish, puffer fish, grouper and spotted stingrays.
Angelfish, Clownfish, Triggerfish, turtles, parrot fish, spotted stingrays and pufferfish are just a few of the vast array of life here, under the sea.
Take a walk up to another of Gustav Eiffel’s lighthouses probably spotting a few resident Black Lemur along the way.
A road trip where history, wildlife and modern East Africa meet at every turn. The journey is unforgettable as the destination itself. By Rupi Mangat
Published: Saturday Nation magazine 6 December 2025
The road from Nairobi to Ngorongoro on either side of the Kenya-Tanzania border has changed rapidly since the millennium. Kitengela, once a dusty road-side village is now a busy town with modern malls like Nairobi. The tarmac road leads us past Il Bisil that boasts a little-known Neolithic site when Homo sapien was beginning to settle around 10,000 years ago and then to the one-stop border at Namanga on the foothills of the Black Mountain or Ol Donyo Orok more popularly called the Namanga Hills. It was on this road I saw my first Greater kudu dash across the murrum road caught in the car light one night in 1974.
The one-stop border is efficient without the long wait of the old days and we’re in Tanzania.
The nyika is dry. It’s October and the land is parched. Mile after mile, it’s the thorn trees and scrub with only the green on Mount Longido breaking the monotone of earth and a solitary young Maasai giraffe.
In the stillness of the forest, the silence is interrupted by the sound of snapping branches. “It’s the forest elephants moving through the forest,” tells Chelimo Salim in a quiet tone. He’s our gorilla guide on the trek to see the greatest ape on the planet – the gorilla and to be specific, the Mountain gorillas of Bwindi.
The morning mist is rising to reveal the dense forest covering the mountain range of the Virunga volcanoes that stretch into neighbouring Rwanda that is also home to these gorillas.
But at this moment I want to see the unique forest elephants that are rare and adapted to living in the dark, dense forests of Bwindi. Smaller than the African savannah elephants, they have rounded ears and straighter downward pointing tusks which make it easier for them to move through the forest. It’s anybody’s guess how many there are in the forest – estimates waver between 40 and 300.
The sound ebbs as the elephants move deeper into the impenetrable forest that few outsiders knew about until recently. Its sudden claim to fame came with the ‘discovery’ of the Mountain gorillas – and that not even by sight but from their droppings below their night nests when researchers began to venture into the thick forest glades. That was in the 1980s when Uganda was in the midst of political turmoil. Needless to say, this ‘discovery’ made little headlines.
FYI – Bwindi means place of darkness from the Runyakitara word Mubwindi.
On Global Big Day 10 May 2025 from Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
Above: The Sleeping warrior aka Delamere’s nose between Lake Elmenteita and Mt Eburru. Credit Aloise Garvey
By Rupi Mangat
Published Saturday Nation newspaper magazine 17 May 2025
It’s the calm of the morning, serene and quiet, one that l don’t want broken, one that l am alone in. In this world in front of me, a solitary Great White Pelican swims in the expanse of the grey-blue lake, reflected in its still waters as is the massif of Eburru and the profile of the Sleeping Warrior that we knew as Delamere’s nose in days past.
Soysambu Conservancy with Flamingos on Lake Elmenteita and Delamere’s Nose. Copyright Rupi Mangat
It’s still early and it’s the day to celebrate birds for it’s the Global Big Day for birders all over the world with birders in Kenya fanned out in the country except in the north-eastern. I’ve teamed up with two super birders Aloise Garvey Maina and Anthony Mokaya at Soysambu Conservancy to log in as many species of the feathered kind on the eBird app in a bid to make Kenya ranked amongst the top ten countries for birding. The giants of the birding world that have never been toppled since the start of GBD in 2014 are Colombia, Peru and Ecuador with Kenya hovering in the 7th or 8th position. Our mission is to inch closer to the coveted top spot.
As the morning warms the yellow-barked acacia woodland and the lawns of Lake Elmenteita Serena come alive with the cacophony of birds where Aloise is a most sought-after naturalist. By 8 in the morning, Aloise and Anthony have logged in 50 species at the camp and after a filling breakfast of freshly-baked pastries and fresh fruits followed by a hearty helping of a cooked breakfast, we’re driving out into the conservancy that takes its name from the Maasai words for ‘the place of striated rock’ and ‘Sambu’ for the cattle colour, aptly chosen by the first Lord Delamere.
Boran cattle at Soysambu. Copyright Rupi Mangat
A colourful character from the past, he walked some 1,000 kilometres from Berbera in Somaliland to arrive in Kenya in 1897 when only in his early twenties. He then swopped his palatial estate in Cheshire to fund his projects in his adopted home building himself a mud-hut that was doorless and windowless to sleep. Delamere introduced the short-horn cattle and cross-bred them with the indigenous Borana cattle that became a hallmark of the beef industry. It’s history framed on the canvas wall of the palatial lounge fashioned after the early days of safaris that the rich came to Africa for in the early 1900s.
Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
Having morphed from only a cattle ranch into a wildlife conservancy that’s famed for its 450 species of birds, lions, 10 percent of the global population of the endangered Rothschild giraffes, and so much more, we’re regaled by a Green-headed sunbird which the two men are keen to photograph. “The Green-headed sunbird is a central Kenya species but when it’s too cold in the highlands, it flies south for warmer climes,” narrates Aloise who grew up fascinated by nature mentored by his grandfather.
A solitary Lesser flamingo in the now-fresh Lake Elmenteita. Credit Aloise Garvey
Armed with binoculars and super-powerful cameras like the Cannon R5 with a 200-800 mm lens, we scan the plains peppered with lilac and white wild flowers and scour the blue skies. The men shoot the Martial that’s the most powerful and a pair of Tawny that has them wandering into the grassland when they are surprised by a pair of Secretarybirds stalking for their menu of snakes and rodents. Numerous until recently, these stately birds are now labelled ‘endangered’. Mokaya is elated when he logs in the Coqui francolin, a lifer for him – meaning it’s the first time he’s seeing it.
The list expands, a herd of Rothschild amble by, a pair of Silver-backed jackals frolic in the long grass and by the lakeshore that’s risen from a single-digit foot to 30-plus, the handsome bulls for beef with impressive humps are herded for a drink to the lake in the company of the Grey white pelican that perform a synchronized dance to gulp their fish. The now-submerged islands in the lake are their only breeding ground in East Africa.
Great White Pelicans getting ready for breakfast. So they have to pool together and start herding the fish in a tigtt fist. Then the pelicans will upturn themselves with just their ‘tutus’ showing while they open their great big bills and snap up the fish. Copyright Rupi Mangat
The Merorani flows in spate, few flamingos grace the lake and by eventide with 166 species logged in, we return to the comfort of the camp to dine on exquisite foods. Click the linkhttps://ebird.org/checklist/S235684791 to see Aloise’s bird list on GBD. The preliminary results has Kenya ranked 8th.
Log Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp to see the 24 palatial en-suite tents that come complete with king-sized beds and chandeliers. Lake Elmenteita Serena is for the discerning traveller without the crowds. Indulge at the signature spa, swim in the heated pool, or ride the horses and camels by the lakeshore, game drives and nature walks– the camp’s fashioned to revel in nature.
Moonlion Safaris 