UGANDA: Mountain gorillas, Lions & the Nile on a Wildlife Safari

A Journey Woman Exclusive gorilla trekking with the amazing Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka (pictured above): Photo Credit: Esther Ruth Mbabazi

Nov 1 – Nov 9, 2026

Duration: 9 nights/10 days

Group size: Minimum 6 and maximum 12

Highlights

  • Luxury Safari in three diverse wildlife areas
  • Fly across Uganda
  • Trek for the Mountain gorilla with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Uganda’s first wildlife vet
  • And founder of Conservation Through Public Health
  • See ‘only found in Uganda’ wildlife
  • Stay in unique wildlife lodges, one by the Nile
  • Sail the Nile to the most powerful waterfall in the world
  • Be awed by the Mountains of the Moon
  • Toast to Africa every evening
  • Indulge in mouth-watering international and Uganda’s cuisine

Your days will be filled with watching Africa’s spectacular wildlife in diverse parks with iconic backdrops like the Mountains of the Moon and ending each day with a toast to the wild in the glow of the ‘golden light’.

You will trek with the Dr Gladys and the gorilla guardians who will amaze you with the success story of Uganda’s Mountain gorillas and the local people living there.

->Want to see Mountain gorillas, then you got to safari in Uganda!

 Here’s what’s so special about it!

PS: Since then in 2015, Mountain gorillas numbers are up: 1,063 from 800

Humm…pondering what to do…a Mountain Gorilla in Bwindi National Park. Credit: Esther Ruth Mbabazi

Meet your Safari Guide

Lilian Kamusiime, pictured above, is Uganda’s pioneer female safari guide and driver. In her many ‘firsts’, she is the founding member of Uganda Women Birders and an advocate for women’s empowerment in the tourist industry. She trains tourist guides, is the past vice-chair of Uganda Safari Guides Association and member of Nature Uganda and the Rotary Club of Kabale. As a former school teacher, she strongly believes in mentoring youth and hence her engagement with the Wildlife Clubs of Uganda.

Know your Safari Planner, Rupi Mangat

Rupi Mangat in Masai Mara in Kenya. Image by Jill Cohen

Rupi is founder of Moonlion Safaris and a travel writer with a particular concentration on wildlife conservation and sustainability. She is 3rd generation Kenyan who has been on safari countless times since she started writing professionally in 1998. She works with the Wildlife Clubs of Kenya as the editor of Komba, the magazine to promote wildlife conservation amongst schoolchildren. With her strong connections with conservation organizations like the East African Wild Life Society and the Conservation Through Public Health which are not-for-profits doing amazing wildlife conservation work in today’s challenging world. 

Day 1  – Sunday Nov 1

Fly into Entebbe the lakeshore city of Uganda. You will be met at the airport by your driver-guide to the Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort & Spa.

Th Marina and Golf Course at Lake Victoria Serena in Entebbe, Uganda

The Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort is one of Entebbe’s finest hotels on the shores of Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile, the world’s longest river.

The day is at leisure. The hotel is a few minutes’ drive to the central business district. Entebbe works at a leisurely pace. The core of the city boasts early colonial architecture and the Entebbe zoo. Or you may just want to enjoy a sundowner on the lake, a round of golf on the PGA-rated 18-hole course or treat yourself at the spa before the safari (at own cost).

6 p.m: Meet at the Marina Restaurant overlooking the lake for sundowners and dinner (at own cost).

It’s a grand way to end the day.

Hotel: Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort& Spa.

Day 2  – Monday Nov 2

Today the adventure begins.

After a hearty breakfast we will fly to Murchison Falls National Park 350 kms northwest of Entebbe, home of the world’s most powerful waterfall, Murchison Falls.

Murchison Falls, powerful on the River Nile. Photo credit: Rupi Mangat

9.00 – Depart hotel for Entebbe airport.

12.05 – Flight to Murchison Falls.

Enjoy the flight over Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake and the world’s second largest freshwater lake that the world knew nothing about till the British explorer John Hanning Speke saw it and correctly identified it as the source of the Nile on 30 July 1858 – and so solving the greatest mystery that even perplexed the pharaohs.

13.05 – You will be collected from the Pakuba airstrip and enjoy a short game drive en route to Paraa Safari Lodge looking over the Nile.

The 3,840-square-kilometer park spans the savanna between Lake Albert and Karuma Fall. The park is spectacular for its wildlife and tapestry of grassland, and swamps along the Nile, which at 6,000 kilometres is the world’s longest waterway.  

Murchison was named after the Scottish geologist in 1864 by the 19th century explorer Samuel Baker who trekked the continent accompanied by his wife Florence. Baker was also the first to document Lake Albert straddling the Uganda-Congo border in the Great Rift Valley.

2 p.m. – Enjoy a late lunch by the Nile where you might see buffaloes or crocodiles lounging on the banks.

4 p.m. – You will leave for an afternoon game drive in search of big game like Uganda’s unique Uganda Kob and Nubian giraffe with lions and elephants for a good measure. The park also boasts rich birdlife. We will return to the lodge at sunset.

7.30 p.m. – Meet for a cocktail at the bar and then dine on delicious foods as the Nile flows leisurely by. We’ll exchange the day’s highlights and enjoy the night sky before calling it a night.

Hotel:  Paraa Safari Lodge

Day 3  – Tuesday Nov 3

6 a.m. – It’s an early start to the day at Wake up calls can be arranged.

6.30 a.m. – Enjoy a cuppa coffee or tea and biscuits before you set out for an early morning game drive. This is the best time to enjoy wildlife as well as late afternoons before the sun goes down. It’s the time when the animals are most active before the sun becomes too hot for them and lethargy sets in. The lionesses would rather hunt when it’s cooler but being opportunistic the hunt is on if the quarry is easy. Lions do not have sweat glands and you’ll hear them panting a lot.

A lion stretches in the morning in Murchison Fall National Park

9 a.m. – Return to the lodge for breakfast.

Take time to relax, swim, read a book and enjoy the grounds.

12.30 p.m: After an early lunch, drive to the waterfalls that squeezes through the six-metre-wide gorge to crash down 43 metres and continue its flow to the pharoses’ land.

It’s a slow boat ride looking out for the crocodiles and hippos with sightings of the plains game coming to quench their thirst before the thundering roar of the amazing waterfalls. It’s a sight to behold.

Hippo and crocodile on the boat ride to Murchison Falls

6.30 p.m. – Return to the lodge.

Take some time to refresh with a cold beer at the bar or a cool shower.

7.30 p.m. Meet for another gourmet feast by the Nile and retire after a nightcap by the fire pit.

Hotel:  Paraa Safari Lodge

Day 4  – Wednesday Nov 4

Savour breakfast on the banks of the Nile and be ready to checkout.

12 noon – Depart to the airstrip.

1.20 p.m. – Fly to Queen Elizabeth National Park in plain sight of the Ruwenzori Mountains or the Mountains of the Moon as the first century Greek scholar Ptolemy called them and thought of them as the source of the Nile.

Mweya Safari Lodge on the peninsula above the Kazinga Channel

2.25 p.m. – Land at Kasese, the town on the foothills of the Ruwenzoris. The drivers will be at the airstrip to drive you to Mweya Lodge, crossing the Equator with an amazing array of landscapes and wildlife.

The park, named after the late British monarch’s 1952 visit, is famous for its tree climbing lions and chimpanzees besides the elephants, Uganda Kob and an impressive list of 600 species of birds.

On arrival enjoy a late lunch and relax at the lodge.

3.30 p.m. Set off on another exciting game drive through the lush plains. Look out for leopard, lions and the Uganda Kob that breeds here before returning to camp at sunset.

Return just in time for cocktails by the campfire before a sumptuous dinner freshly prepared under the Equatorial stars. For star gazers, this is the perfect spot to see the constellations of the two hemispheres.

Enjoy your evening and a good night’s sleep in your luxurious abode.

Room with a view at Mweya

Hotel: Mweya Safari Lodge

Day 5  – Thursday Nov 5

6.15 a.m. – Another glorious morning in Africa. Rise and shine for an early morning game drive after a cuppa. The landscape is surreal with the Mountains of the Moon that boast a snow-topped high peak at 16,762 feet, making it Africa’s third highest mountain.

9 a.m. – Return for breakfast by

Optional – extra cost US$ 250 Per person inclusive of transport: Or you may wish to hike into Gorge for another Great Ape before meeting the Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi. These are the chimpanzees of Kyambura, playful and endearing. Spend an hour with them before returning to lodge/picnic lunch. The gorge, 100 meters deep and 16 kilometers long, carved by the Kyambura River is the home of other primates like the red-tailed monkeys plus a myriad of colourful forest birds.

Elephant in Queen Elizabeth National Park

After lunch, prepare for another exciting boat ride along the famous Kazinga Channel, a 32-kilometer- long link between the Albertine Valley’s Lake Edward and Lake George. The channel boasts the world’s largest concentration of hippos, crocodiles, elephant, buffaloes and waterbucks coming for a drink. For birders, it’s time to log in the amazing birdlife that include the Pelicans, Fish Eagles, Kingfishers, Cormorants and the bright coloured Saddle-billed Stork. With Lilian as an acclaimed bird guide, you will be fascinated by the feathered kind.

Return for a starlit dinner followed by a night cap by the campfire and finally to a peaceful slumber in your luxurious room.

Hotel: Mweya Safari Lodge

Day 6  – Friday Nov 6

A 30-minute flight from Queen Elizabeth National Park and you will land in Kihihi town and be driven to Bwindi on the edge of the Albertine Rift. It’s a mesmeric flight over the Ruwenzoris and the lakes and on to the dense forest that the locals call Place of Darkness. This is the home of more than half of the world’s population of the Mountain Gorillas – only discovered in Bwindi in 1987 from their night nests in the trees.

You will be collected from Kihihi airstrip and driven to Mahogany Springs Lodge, your luxury address for the night overlooking the high forest-clad vales of Bwindi.

Lodge in the mist – the enchanting Mahogany Springs

After check-in, relax and enjoy an exquisite lunch.

Enjoy the afternoon. There are many activities such as visiting the Ride4aWoman, a charitable organisation that empowers local widows through skill training, micro-finance and mentoring. The women work at the lodge, making curtains, mosquito nets, clothing, cushions, lampshades and more. A 2 minute walk from Mahogany Springs, clients are able to visit this project. This is a complimentary activity.

READ: Walking with Gorillas by Dr. Gladys’s globally acclaimed NGO, Conservation Through Public Health before returning at sunset to the lodge.

6 p.m.: Take a few minutes to refresh before we meet for cocktails on you first night in Bwindi, that is one the most bio-diverse places on Earth.

Dinner will be served fused with the rich forest air and lots of lively exchanges with the excitement of meeting the gorillas.

Hotel: Mahogany Springs Lodge

Day 7  – Saturday Nov 7

This is your day for an encounter with the greatest ape on Earth – the Mountain gorilla accompanied by Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka.

The distinguished vet and researcher will tell you about the Bwindi gorillas and her journey as Uganda’s first wildlife vet. You will get to know some fascinating insights into what it takes to save the Mountain gorillas – which is all about co-existence between the primate (us) and the non-human primate (gorillas, chimpanzees plus some 500 more species). I’m not telling you more.

6.30 a.m. – Meet for breakfast and then a short drive will bring you to the legendary impenetrable forest for an exciting day of hiking for our close relative with who we share 98.4% of our genes.

The population of Bwindi’s Mountain gorilla is on the rise from 300 in 1999 to 459 and increasing. The Mountain gorilla is the only gorilla species whose population is increasing which has seen it removed from being listed as Critically endangered to Endangered.

The forest is also home to the extremely rare Forest elephant that number 300. If we see one with the Great Blue Turaco, a bird of the rainforests – you will be one of the few to ever witness this!

Depending on the duration of the hike, you will return to the lodge for a late lunch and have the afternoon to yourself in this magical paradise.

7.30 p.m. – Meet for dinner over lively conversation about your day with the Great apes of Bwindi and more.

Hotel: Mahogany Springs Lodge

Day 8  – Sunday Nov 8

After breakfast, depart with a packed picnic lunch for a full day with Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka. Engage with local community members and learn about their partnership with Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH) in promoting both human and wildlife health.

Then visit the Gorilla Health and Community Centre, where vital research is conducted through the analysis of gorilla and livestock samples to detect viruses/diseases that threaten the endangered mountain gorilla populations

Day 9 – Monday Nov 9

Entebbe

6 a.m. – Wake up to the crystal-fresh air of the mountains for a sumptuous breakfast.

7 a.m. – Say goodbye to this enchanting paradise, a special place on the planet and now in your heart.

9.30 a.m – Flight departs from Kihihi airport to Entebbe

11.25 a.m. –  Flight lands at the Entebbe International Airport for your return flights. There will be a lot of memories to take back home after your amazing African safari with new friends met.

Day room or overnight: *HOTEL CLOSEST TO AIRPORT

To paraphrase the late gorilla researcher Dian Fossey: ”The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla … and when you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future.”

COST:

Per Person: US$ 9,335

Per Person Sharing: US$  8,573

THE PACKAGE INCLUDES:

  • 1 night accommodation at Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort & Spa on bed & breakfast basis and arrival airport transfer
  • 2 nights accommodation at Paraa Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park on full board basis
  • 2 nights at Mweya Safari Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park on full board basis
  • 3 nights accommodation at Mahogany Springs Lodge, Bwindi on full board basis
  • Murchison Falls: 2 game drives, An excursion to the top of the falls, A boat cruise to the base of the falls
  • QE National Park: 2 game drives, A boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel
  • Bwindi: 1 gorilla tracking permit per person in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
  • Bwindi –visit amazing CPTH Gorilla lab and community projects
  • Air tickets Entebbe-Pakuba (Murchison Falls)-Mweya (QE National Park)-Kihihi-Entebbe
  • Ground transportation and airstrip transfers
  • National park entrance fees
  • Flying Doctor emergency evacuation
  • All statutory taxes

NOT INCLUDED:

  • Beverages, incidentals, gratuities and items of a personal nature
  • Additional meals in Entebbe
  • Optional porter, should you require a porter during the trek (payable direct)
  • Any optional extra activities not indicated above

Would you like to add a safari in Kenya, Tanzania or Madagascar before or after the Uganda Gorilla safari, all you got to do is write to us.

Culture: Samburu heritage preserved in new museum

By Rupi Mangat

Above: Samburu women admiring all things Samburu during launch of the Rhodia Mann Museum of Samburu Culture at Sasaab Luxury Camp- Image by Klein Nettoh

It’s a day of celebration with the Samburu elders blessing the ceremony, the women dressed in traditional regalia of beaded necklaces singing songs of praise and the morans dancing with high leaps and deep-throated beats.

Samburu morans dancing at the opening of the Rhodia Mann Museum of Samburu Culture at Sasaab. Picture: Rupi Mangat

“This is a moving day for me of a story that began when l was nine years,” tells Rhodia Mann her voice emotional as she begins the story of how the Rhodia Mann Museum of Samburu Culture came into being.

Inaugurated on 5th December 2025 at the Sasaab Luxury Tented Camp in Westgate Conservancy in the heart of Samburu land, it is Rhodia’s collection of all things Samburu collected over a span of six decades.

It houses 60 artefacts, 150 photographs and pages of maps, diagrams, charts and text that were transported from Nairobi in a seven-ton truck filled with 53 crates to Samburu, the land where it all came from. “I had to give it all back because it rightfully belongs there,” tells Rhodia, now in her 80s.

Standing by the museum that is the only one of its kind in the world that houses the Samburu culture, Rhodia continues her story. Dressed in an earth-red shirt and pants, now increasingly frail with an autoimmune condition, she’s still feisty and here to see the museum come to life – a collection she put up in four days with her eye to detail.

The Start of the Journey

“My father brought me to Maralal,” narrates Rhodia to a rapt audience against a backdrop of ancient rocks weathered in time over a span of 25 million years that once stood taller than the tallest mountain Kenya that’s dated at two million years.

Born of immigrant parents – her Polish father Igor and Romanian mother Erica who fled the Nazi regime in the second world war – she grew up in a house full of intellectuals, artists, writers and political activists from around the world. Her father was a veterinary doctor and became the world authority in parasitology and her mother, Nairobi’s earliest town planner commissioned to plan the largest city between Cape and Cairo of 250,000 people, recalls Rhodia.

Her father being a vet in the colonial regime was posted to the northern lands to develop the livestock industry at a time when it was closed to the outside world and deemed dangerous. On many of these forays into the north, he was accompanied by his wife and daughter.

On her first safari, Rhodia remembers. “I was at a Samburu manyatta and everyone was all over me. I was the first white child the Samburu had seen. I was totally admired and pampered and by the end of the visit, I was completely covered in ochre and dust. But it was the happiest day of my life.

“The provincial administrator then drove us to a point and asked me to close my eyes. He guided me a few steps and then asked me to open my eyes. What I saw was the most beautiful sight. I was standing at the edge of the Great Rift Valley at a place called Losiolo and I had the whole world spread below me. I wrote about it in my diary.”

Fast Forward

School took over and then further studies in New York in fashion design and business administration. Marriage followed with a bitter divorce where she fought for custody of her two sons – and lost.

While in the US, her father sent her beads from Afghanistan. “I strung the first ones into a necklace for myself but when a friend saw it, she asked if she could by it. Off my head, I quoted USD 60 and she paid. At that time (in the 1970s) it was a lot of money.”

It was the beginning of Rhodia’s jewellery business that saw her travel to remote and far-flung places like Ladhak, Mongolia, Pakistan, India, Bali and more, buying beads to fashion into unique pieces of jewellery with sold-out exhibitions in high-end galleries like on Madison Avenue.

Returning Home

In 1981, Rhodia returned home to Kenya never to return to the US. At a loose end on what to do and with no money, she discovered a bead shop in downtown Nairobi selling old beads.

Collection of Samburu jewellery in Rhodia Mann private collection. Image by Rupi Mangat

“I started designing jewellery again with beads available here and began travelling the world again.”

When Rhodia talks beads, she’s talking about beads bought from local people, nomads, refugees like in western Tibet fleeing from Chinese invasion. They are selective pieces of historical significance in today’s industrial age of mass manufacture.

And then one day she chanced upon her childhood diary that her mother had kept. In it she had written about a dream when she was 16 of standing at the same place as a nine-year-old at the edge of the escarpment at Losiolo.

To Follow the Dream

The discovery of her childhood diary was the cue to return to Samburu.

Painting by Jak Katarikawe the acclaimed Ugandan artist of Rhodia meeting her Samburu family hanging in her living room. Picture Rupi Mangat

In 1996, Rhodia drove herself in her tiny shoebox-sized car to Maralal. She met a Samburu blacksmith who showed her all the things he made. She also found the manyatta with the same family she had been to as a child. It was the start of her many safaris to the vast parts of northern Kenya stretching from Moyale to Mandera, the border towns of the Ethiopian and Somalia respectively.

“I spent years learning the Samburu culture. Cultures enrich you. I started bringing tourists here. At the time there were few tourists coming here. My Samburu mother adopted me and gave me her wedding necklace, which is passed on from mother to daughter.”

Her Samburu mother, Ntaipi Lelenguyu, was a respected holy woman. With her adopting Rhodia and naming her Noongishu meaning cattle in Samburu, all doors were opened to Rhodia. The name Noongishu implies a woman who has her own wealth and does not need a man to provide for her.

Documenting Samburu Culture

From 1996 to 2000, Rhodia and Clive Ward photographed rituals and ceremonies, many that had never been seen by the outside world. Ward a professional mountaineer, guide and photographer passed away in April this year.

They are in the museum.

“Rhodia is a living legend,” commented Her Excellency Ms. Nicol Adamcová,

the Czech Ambassador to Kenya.

Since 1976, every bead used by the Samburu has come from the Czech Republic. Picture by Rupi Mangat

“Since 1976, every bead used by the Samburu has come from the Czech Republic and we are proud of this special bond, 50 years of Czech beads in Samburu.”

“Rhodia, thank you for this museum,” added Steven Lelendoia, Westgate conservancy’s wildlife warden, “for bringing back home this collection. It is a great honour for us because some of the things in the museum are not easy to see today. This collection is for all generations to come.”

Sitting amongst the Samburu women who earlier on blessed the ceremony is Masulani Lenaiwasae from a village near Sasaab. “I wasn’t aware that our culture is changing so much. Many of the things in the museum are now rare. I’m happy to see our culture being preserved here.

Rhodia Mann presenting Stella Napanu, her Samburu ‘daughter’, a necklace that spans generations made of elephant hair and with a string of Venetian beads in the middle, the style no longer made today. Napanu will only wear the necklace once she is married.

“I remembered my dream and followed it. I am now at the end of my dream,” stated Rhodia. With that she passed her necklace to Stella Napanu, her Samburu ‘daughter’, a necklace that spans generations made of elephant hair and with a string of Venetian beads in the middle, the style no longer made today. Napanu will only wear the necklace once she is married.

Accepting the marriage necklace, said an emotional Napanu, “We are slowly losing our culture. This museum will play a vital role in preserving our culture and therefore it is really  important that the Samburu including Samburu children are able to access it to learn about our roots and our connection to our lands.

With that, Rhodia unveiled the sign to the museum.

The Samburu

Rhodia Mann’s books authored by her. Image Rupi Mangat

Ntimayon kumontare is the planet Venus on the headpiece of Samburu women. It represents the morning star and acts as a guide and brings good omen to the wearer.

The Samburu, a Nilotic people, believe they lived on Venus. Then God made a new world and sent them there. The people climbed down the ladder and landed on a rock. The rock, now revered holy,  is in the middle of Kisima, a large water body in Samburu county.

Where the earth opens: A morning inside Ngorongoro Crater

By Rupi Mangat

Published: 20 December 2025 Saturday Nation magazine

We drive out of Karatu to reach the gates to Ngororongoro Conservation Area that’s home to the spectacular crater and the endless plains of the Serengeti – a fitting name borrowed from the Maa word, Siringit.

Dawn is breaking and the idea is to catch sunrise in the crater. At the gate, the baboons stir from the night trees, stretch and yawn to reveal massive jaws.

The gate keepers to the heavenly abode scrutinise our tickets, especially the Kenyan IDs. My Dad’s Kenyan ID states place of birth as India. For the Tanzania National Park’s (TANAPA = Kenya’s KWS) he must provide his passport to prove he is Kenyan or else he will not be allowed out of the NCA. Bizarre.

To cut a long story short, we do miss sunrise over the rim – but the view is surreal, for no one seeing this for the first time would believe there’s a crater below the opaque white-mist blanket

And as the ethereal orb in fiery hues of gold rises to chase away the mist, it’s jaw-dropping to watch the ancient crater reveal itself.

Continue reading “Where the earth opens: A morning inside Ngorongoro Crater”

Angel’s Ark on Naivasha’s water

Sailing to the island and beyond

By Rupi Mangat  

Above: Sailing on Angel’s Ark on Lake Naivasha to Crescent Island. Credit Bonnie Dunbar

The house is legendary as is the lake on whose shores it rests. Kilimandege – the hill of the birds has seen many novel visitors, chief amongst them Sally the hippo who wandered through the doors to sit in the lounge. The white-washed house was home to the famous couple Alan and Joan Root who shot some of the first epic movies on wildlife like the unforgettable Mysterious Castles of Clay and Mzima, Portrait of a Spring.

On the verandah of Kilimandege House looking out to Lake Naivasha. Picture: Rupi Mangat
Continue reading “Angel’s Ark on Naivasha’s water”

Where the Nile whispers and the waterfalls roar

Meet the mighty river on its most dramatic stage where it plunges 43 metres on its journey north to drain into the Mediterranean. By RUPI MANGAT

Published: Nation media Sarmag 9 August 2025

The great expanse of water shimmers in the morning light as we fly over it to land in Entebbe, an hour’s flight from Nairobi. Yet less than two hundred years ago, the outside world knew nothing about this lake or the country that we now know of as Uganda.

Back then, Africa’s interior was a closely guarded secret by the Arab traders mainly for slaves, elephant tusks and timber. The mystery of the Nile’s origin became the driving force for the European explorers to enter the unknown. So when John Hanning Speke saw the lake in 1858 from a village near Mwanza in Tanzania, he uttered the unforgettable quote, “The Nile is solved”. He was ridiculed for it. The matter of the Nile was finally solved in 1875 when the journalist-explorer Henry Morten Stanley circumvented Victoria (as Speke christened it after the then British monarch, Queen Victoria), confirming it as the Nile’s source.

From Entebbe to the world’s most powerful falls

We’re wrapped in luxury at Lake Victoria Serena Entebbe on the edge of the Great African lake. Our journey into Uganda is to scale the mountains of the impenetrable forest in search of Bwindi’s Mountain gorillas that the outside world only got to know of in 1987 – and that not even by sighting our ape cousins but from the droppings below their night nests.

“The Mountain gorilla is the only subspecies of gorillas that is increasing in number and is now classified as ‘endangered’ from ‘Critically endangered’,” states Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Uganda’s first wildlife vet. Their numbers have increased from an estimated 300 to 1063 in the wild today.

Dr Gladys is a trail blazer. She and her husband Lawrence founded Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH) 20 years ago and have achieved international recognition for their ‘One Health’ approach that involves the well-being of the people who live alongside our ape cousin. Dr Gladys’ book, ‘Walking with Gorillas’ is a best seller, copies of which she signs after her presentation to the enraptured group.

The first leg of the journey is to Murchison Falls National Park – a 50-minute flight – to meet the Nile on its most dramatic stage where the mighty river plunges 43 metres through a 7-metre chasm on its 6,000-kilometre journey north to drain into the Mediterranean in the land of the pharaohs.

Murchison on the Nile

It was Baker with his wife Florence who came upon the ‘world’s most powerful waterfall’ in 1864, when looking to solve the Nile’s source – which they did not. They named the falls Murchison after the president of the Royal Geographical Society. However, the wandering couple came upon the lake (which today spans Uganda-DRC border) that glistens in the horizon as we land in 3,893-square-kilometre Murchison Falls National Park at Pakuba airstrip – the lake they named Albert after the British queen’s husband.  The duo also documented Karuma Falls, a spectacular series of cataracts along the Nile spanned today by Karuma bridge along the main Kampala-Gulu highway.

The park is lush green like an emerald with towering Borassus palms that our safari guide jokes are planted by elephants! The seed passes through the elephant’s gut and germinates on the ground.

The common patas monkeys watch us from the road side. Unlike other monkeys that prefer trees to terra firma, the patas is mostly seen on ground and with its long legs is a fast runner. Unfortunately the Kenyan patas monkey is extinct in the wild – the Critically Endangered southern patas monkey (E. baumstarki). Found only in northern Tanzania today, the population is between 40–100 mature individuals remaining in the wild.

The Rothschild giraffes grace the plains nibbling on the acacias, Jackson’s hartebeest stand sentinel, a lioness in the tree stops all on track and finally the day ends with a drive to the top of the thundering falls on a road recently tarmacked over the new bridge spanning the Nile, doing away with the iconic ferry crossing.

The following day we sail the Nile to the bottom of the falls. A crocodile slithers into the river; others stay statuesque with jaws wide open to cool down in the afternoon heat. A herd of elephants frolic on the river’s edge hosing themselves with the rich red mud – a spa in the wild. FYI – Baker had by the age of 20, invented a powerful gun to kill an elephant with a single shot.

Pods of hippos pop around in the blue waters and we give them a wide berth. In 1870, Baker’s boat was attacked by an angry hippo on the Nile who munched a large mouthful of the wooden vessel. An hour later we sight the falls – and they never fail to impress. The river has risen and the force of the falls keeps the boats at a distance. All we can do is watch in awe with its permanent rainbow.

The Nile tumbling through a 7-metre gap down 43 metres to the land of the pharoahs. Pic: Rupi Mangat

More on Murchison Falls

It’s easily doable from Nairobi via road or by air with a range of accommodation in and outside the park. Combine the falls for a safari circuit with Budongo or Kibale forests for chimpanzee trekking; Queen Elizabeth National Park and Bwindi for the Mountain gorillas.

Log on to Uganda Wildlife Authority for current park fee.

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