2013 Ecotourism Journalist of the Year (Ecotourism Society of Kenya) | Editor, Komba Magazine (Wildlife Clubs of Kenya) | Contributor, The East African and Saturday Magazine (Nation)
Above image: Lesser flamingoes and Great white pelicans fying overhead in Lake Nakuru National Park. Credit Inderjit Singh Mangat
Published: Saturday Nation magazine 17 Feb 2024
The lake is white-laced as we drive into the 100-year old farm house that morphed into Lake Nakuru Lodge. It sets the stage for the following events on a two-night stay.
Great white pelicans at dawn with water vapor rising Lake Nakuru national park. Picture R.Mangat Feb 2024
Checked in, we’re looking the iconic lake best known for its pretty pink flamingos, the acacia woodland and the grass plains – a perfect world for all the wildlife we are about to see over a two night stay. The lake edge is laced with the Great white pelicans taking supreme advantage of the alkaline lake now turned fresh since the phenomenal rise of the Great Rift Valley lakes since 2012.
Scene one: The leopard in the tree. “You will see everything,” states Mr Muya of Lake Nakuru Lodge, who has grown up around it. The ‘everything’ includes four of the Big 5 except the elephant that is not found in the park.
Leopard lounging on acacaia in Lake Nakuru National Park Feb 2024. Credit Inderjit Mangat
Ten minutes from the lodge of day one, the leopard lounges on a thick branch of a yellow-bark acacia tree in a forested grove. The feline holds us spell-bound, stretching, yawning, turning, sitting, lying with all four limbs dangling and after an hour of suspense – will it or will it not climb down, it’s time to leave.
Scene two: After the leopard, same day, driving into the plains, it’s the strangest scene – a lion stuck in the tree! It’s spread-eagle with four legs apart and the tail dangling in the fork of the tree. Above it, on the higher branches are five other lions watching their mate – and on the ground, another waiting for this one to climb higher. But the poor lion can’t go any higher because the forked branches are too far apart. Is it a young dare-devil modern kid trying out new moves?
Comedy in the making – lion stuck in the fork of an acacia tree in Lake Nakuru National Park Feb 2024. Credit Inderjit Mangat
It’s straining, muscles taut. Finally some thirty minutes later, with the greatest of effort it manages to leap down safely to everyone’s relief. “The lions of Lake Nakuru climb the trees to see the best hunting ground,” tells Mr Muya. “And this pride is resident here.”
Scene three: At day break, with the piercing signature call of the African fish eagle, the family of five white rhino (the southern white which is the most common subspecies of rhino unlike the northern white that is now extinct in the wild with the last two females at Ol Pejeta Conservancy). It’s the two big females and two calves with the big male still snoozing on the ground. It’s the funniest scene. The calf decides dad has to get up. The miniature rhino bounds against the giant boulder. Dad doesn’t budge. He runs again to nudge dad up again – no luck and again – but still nothing.
White rhino family in L.Nakuru National Park. Feb 2024. Picture by Inderjit Mangat
All this would be ideal for another episode of Lion King – the real life comedy of life in the wild.
With all the drama on land, there’s more in the iconic lake that is home to over a million lesser flamingos when there is enough algae – their favourite food in the alkaline lake.
However, at this point the lake is almost fresh. Driving across Muya’s Causeway, the golden light of the morning sun fires the crimson hues of the Lesser flamingos by the salt-crusted shores, their stalky pink legs moving like ballerinas tiptoeing, busy dipping their long necks in the water to siphon the microscopic algae and plankton. It’s an engineering feat. The head in the water is upside-down, the water is sucked in, with the bird swallowing only the algae and plankton and siphoning out the salty water. For their fresh water drink, the flamingos fly a short distance to Lake Naivasha or Lake Baringo that are strung along the Great Rift.
Its colour-scope is fascinating – the pink of the flamingos the white of the pelicans, the Yellow-billed storks and African spoon bills and so many more waders while the Long-crested eagle once so common in the country finds space in the wide open plains .
Driving through the glades, herds of buffalo move like soft black waves, the gazelles and impalas gambolling, the giraffes gracefully browsing on the acacias while the baboons add more comic relief with their antics.
Lake Nakuru and its water, grasslands and open skies are home to this fascinating life on earth but for only as long as we can offer the space for the wildlife to live in and move along the migratory corridors to find new mates and breed for the next generation of healthy offspring’s.
Bachelor herd of impalas at a salt lick in Lake Nakuru National Park. Pic Rupi Mangat
For now, back at the lodge, it’s time to dust off and enjoy the aromatherapy massage to rejuvenate the body and soul.
More on Lake Nakuru
Pay by e-Citizen. It can be cumbersome – it took an hour. The system needs to be more user-friendly. Once done, it’s a breeze into the parks.
Lake Nakuru Lodge and the park. Image: Rupi Mangat
The island country lying off the south-eastern coast of Africa is the only home of the lovable lemurs. Our adorable cousins – for they are primates just like us – come in all shapes and sizes with over a 100 species. Your days in Madagascar will be filled with spotting as many as you can.
The world’s fourth largest island and the second-largest island country broke off the supercontinent Gondwana 150 million years ago that separated the Madagascar-Indian landmass from Africa.
A bit more shaking around the Earth’s core saw Madagascar finally split off from the Indian tectonic plate 70 million years later.
Isolated on the Indian Ocean, its flora and fauna developed independently creating 98% endemism – meaning what you see is only in Madagascar and nowhere else in the world.
Let’s discover Madagascar, one of the world’s top ten biodiversity hotspots.
Island History
Slightly larger than France, the tropical island boasts surreal ocean life to ravishing forests that are, of course home to the lemurs and so much more.
Its capital and largest city is Antananarivo affectionally known as Tana.
With 28 million islanders, Malagasy and French are spoken by ethnic groups of Malayo-Indonesian, mixed African and Malayo-Indonesian, and people with an Arab ancestry.
Archaeological research in the 20th century found evidence that human settlers reached Madagascar about five centuries before Europeans discovered the island. Malay-Indonesian seafarers arrived around the first century CE, Arabians followed in the sixth century and established trading posts there.
Here’s what we have planned for you.
DAY ONE Wed 20 August
Arrive in Tana.
Our Airport Meet and Assist Service ensures the most seamless arrival for our guests. Upon completing customs formalities, a dedicated representative will be there to assist you with various tasks, such as currency exchange, obtaining a local SIM card, setting up data on your SIM, and addressing any other requirements you may have. To ensure your convenience, we recommend handling currency exchange and SIM card acquisition before departing the airport.
A visitor’s visa is required and issued on arrival at Tana Airport for 10 euro for up to 13 days and 35 euro for 14 – 30 days.
Transfer by road to La Varangue Hotel.
La Varangue
This is a charming guest house in the centre of an upscale neighbourhood of the capital. Fruit of the marriage of Malagasy and colonial style architecture, this house offers the proximity of the commercial district of Antaninarenina.
Charm with genuine hospitality are the order of the day, the smiles and the competence of the team will make you appreciate the good life, typical of the “Big Island”. This hotel offers unique decoration, and an outstanding collection of antiques will amaze you and transport you to the past.
Embark on an unforgettable journey through the picturesque landscapes of Madagascar by driving from Antananarivo to Andasibe. This 140-kilometer route will take you on an adventure through verdant forests, charming towns, and rural villages.
Your experienced driver will ensure a comfortable and safe ride, while your English-Speaking guide will provide you with interesting insights about the local culture and traditions.
Madagascar Countryside
1 p.m. – Lunch at Vakona Forest Lodge
Overlooking its beautiful old established gardens, enjoy the delicious foods of the island before meeting the lemurs.
Lemurs Island – After lunch, you will enjoy an amazing personal experience with the lemurs in the lodge’s private reserve. It is a short walk from Vakona restaurant to a small rainforest of VOIMMA, which is protected by a local guides association.
Afternoon with lemurs
After your first meeting with the lemurs we will depart for Manjarano Lodge & Spa, a 20 minute drive.
Manjarano Lodge & Spa
Indulge in luxury, tranquillity, and a seamless blend of European standards and natural beauty at Manjarano Lodge & Spa.
Manjarano Lodge & Spa
This exquisite Manjarno is a haven of comfort, elegance, and serenity, nestled in the heart of the magnificent Andasibe forest.
The lodge offers a serene retreat, where you can unwind and rejuvenate amidst the captivating sights and sounds of the wilderness.
From the moment you arrive, the lodge’s impeccable service and attention to detail will ensure a memorable stay. Indulge in luxurious accommodations that provide the perfect blend of comfort and sophistication. The stylishly appointed rooms offer a serene sanctuary, allowing you to unwind and recharge after a day of exploration with captivating nature walks, where you can encounter unique wildlife, including lemurs, birds, and a myriad of endemic flora and fauna.
6 p.m. – We will be escorted on a short night walk to see some of the nocturnal creatures. Grading of the trails is easy. Be sure to pack a strong torch with some spare batteries for night walks.
8 p.m. – Dinner
Indulge in delectable culinary experiences at the lodge’s restaurant, where skilled chefs blend local and international flavours to create a gastronomic journey that delights the senses.
After breakfast, a short drive will bring us to the captivating wonders of Analamazaotra, home to the most popular park within the reserve. This enchanting destination holds a special allure, primarily due to the presence of the rare indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur. Throughout the misty forest, the indri’s haunting and unforgettable wail resonates, creating an otherworldly ambiance that can be experienced throughout the day, but most prominently in the early morning. With approximately 60 resident family groups, each consisting of two to five indris, you’ll have ample opportunities to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat.
While the indris steal the spotlight, the park is teeming with an array of other remarkable lemur species. Keep your eyes peeled for sightings of woolly lemurs, grey bamboo lemurs, red-fronted lemurs, black-and-white ruffed lemurs, and diademed sifakas, which are among the largest lemur species. In 2005, the Goodman’s mouse lemur, identified as a distinct species, was discovered here, further adding to the park’s biodiversity.
As you explore, you’ll also encounter eleven species of tenrec, the vibrant and immense Parson’s chameleon, and an impressive array of seven other chameleon species. Additionally, the park boasts over 100 bird species, 20 species of amphibians, and the endemic Ravenea louvelii palm tree, which is found exclusively within its boundaries.
You will enjoy the Indri 2 trail which encompasses the lakes and extends to the domains of two separate indri families and takes around 3 hours.
To witness the indris in their most active state, the early morning hours, specifically from 7 a.m. (park gates open at 0800) to 11 a.m., are the optimal time. Prepare to be enchanted by their calls and observe their graceful movements through the forest canopy, creating a truly mesmerising experience.
After lunch, we embark on a four hour drive (170kms) from Andasibe back to Antananarivo, offering you a captivating view of the breathtaking Angavo mountain ranges that demarcate the boundary between two distinct climate zones. As we traverse the picturesque landscapes, you’ll be greeted by charming villages that dot the route, each adorned with bustling markets teeming with vibrant energy. This presents the perfect opportunity for you to capture mesmerising photographs that encapsulate the region’s natural beauty and cultural essence.
Prepare to be amazed on your journey with a stop at the captivating Madagascar Exotic Park, owned by the renowned Peyrieras family. Situated on National Road N2 between the towns of Manjakandriana and Moramanga, approximately 75km (47mi) east of Antananarivo, this privately run park is a must-visit destination for wildlife enthusiasts.
Founded and owned by André Peyreiras, a French entomologist and naturalist, the park is also known as the Reserve Peyrieras or Peyrieras Butterfly Farm. Here, you’ll have the chance to witness the feeding of chameleons and observe a range of other fascinating reptiles, including iguanas, geckos, frogs, and crocodiles. The park is also home to the giant Atlas Moth, as well as a variety of butterfly species and tenrecs.
As you enter several large, caged buildings and greenhouses, accompanied by a knowledgeable park guide, you’ll be transported into a world of Malagasy fauna that will leave you in awe. With countless photo opportunities, the Madagascar Exotic Park is the perfect location to learn about Madagascar’s unique wildlife and to witness some of its most remarkable creatures up close. Don’t miss out on this extraordinary experience that will make your Madagascar trip truly unforgettable!
6 p.m. – We will arrive at Relais des Plateaux Hotel & Spa.
Relais des Plateaux Hotel
Situated a stone’s throw from Ivato Airport, the Relais des Plateaux hotel in Antananarivo offers utmost convenience with its complimentary shuttle service to both the airport and the city center. As you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a 24-hour reception, ensuring round-the-clock assistance for your comfort and peace of mind.
The hotel’s tropical garden provides a tranquil oasis, inviting you to unwind and immerse yourself in the serene surroundings.
8 p.m. – Dinner.
Indulge your taste buds at the buffet-style restaurant, adorned with charming, exposed beams, where you can savour a delightful array of culinary delights.
After which, enter your elegant room which overlooks the captivating gardens.
Time permitting, enjoy a dip in the heated swimming pool, where you can bask in the gentle warmth while lounging on comfortable sun lounges. The hotel staff is known for their friendliness and warm hospitality, dedicated to providing top-notch service and ensuring your stay is both comfortable and memorable.
DAY FOUR Sat 23rd August
8 a.m. Start your day with a wholesome island breakfast before the flight to Nosy Be. Your hotel, the Relais des Plateaux, will manage your transfer today.
On arrival in Nosy Be you will be met and transferred to Ravinstra Wellness Hotel, a blend of nature and luxury on the west coast, famous for its stunning sunsets.
Spend the day on the beach, snorkelling or just relaxing with a good book.
Perhaps enjoy a massage or other treatments.
DAY SIX Sun 24th August
Nosy Antsoa and Nosy Iranja
Enjoy an early breakfast before boarding your boat for your first adventure.
Heading south we stop at Nosy Antsoa for a quick swim and a guided walk through the forest to see up to seven species of lemur.
From here we head on to Nosy Iranja.
Two islands at high tide but one, joined by a 750m sandy spit, at low tide.
Nosy Iranja has often been voted the most beautiful of Indian Ocean Islands and deservedly.
Metal lighthouse built by Gustave Eiffel in 1909 . Credit Tato Grasso
On arrival take a walk up to Gustav Eiffel’s lighthouse to enjoy the spectacular view of the island. Explore the village, walk along the spit (take water and a hat!) and if you are lucky you might witness turtles hatching.
After an ice-cold drink at the ‘Tiki Bar’ you will enjoy a fabulous lunch before returning to Nosy Komba.
Nosy Tanikely is a tiny, uninhabited island surrounded by patches of shallow coral and sandy beaches.
Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve
Nosy Tanikely means “island of the little land”.
This natural aquarium is famous for its marine reserve teeming with underwater flora and fauna. It offers superb snorkelling in warm waters with great visibility. You can discover angelfish, clown fish, puffer fish, grouper and spotted stingrays.
Angelfish, Clownfish, Triggerfish, turtles, parrot fish, spotted stingrays and pufferfish are just a few of the vast array of life here, under the sea.
Take a walk up to another of Gustav Eiffel’s lighthouses probably spotting a few resident Black Lemur along the way.
Trekking Rhinos, Chimpanzees & Mountain gorillas plus Lions & The Nile on a Wildlife Safari
14 -24 OCTOBER 2026
Duration: 10 nights, 11 days
Group size: Minimum 7 & Maximum 10 women
Overview:
A safari in Uganda takes you to her Mountain gorillas and the Nile, meeting her people and lavishing in the richness of landscapes that makes Uganda, the Pearl of Africa.
Curated by Rupi Mangat and accompanied by Lilian Kamusiime. Rupi is a third generation local and a leading Kenyan travel writer. Lilian is an acclaimed Ugandan birder and naturalist whose home borders Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
You will meet the gorilla guardians working with the dynamic Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoma founder of the award-winning Conservation Through Public Health who will amaze you with the success story of Uganda’s Mountain gorillas and the local people living there.
October is an exciting month to be on safari. Typically mornings and evenings are cool interspersed with hours of sunshine for the wildlife (and us) to soak in.
You will be enchanted.
->Want to see Mountain gorillas, then you got to safari in Uganda!
Kamusiime is passionate about wildlife and a founder member of Uganda Woman Birders (UWB). She is also the vice-chair of Uganda Safari Guides Association. A veteran tour guide, her home is in Bwindi which started her on her path to wildlife conservation. In addition to this, Kamusiime is known for her advocacy for women’s empowerment in the tourism sector, particularly in birding and guiding.
Your safari with her will be even more enriching as she shares all about Uganda’s wildlife with you.
Day 1 Wednesday 14th October
Fly into Entebbe the lakeshore city of Uganda. You will be met at the airport by our representative who will guide you through arrival. You will then be driven by your driver-guide to your hotel, Papyrus Guest House.
Named after the swamp plant that was used in antiquity by the pharaohs, the hotel is one of Entebbe’s finest near the shores of Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile, the world’s longest river.
The day is at leisure. The hotel is a few minutes’ drive to the central business district. Entebbe works at a leisurely pace. The core of the city boasts early colonial architecture. See the activities (own cost) offered at Papyrus Guest House which includes the Entebbe zoo and the century old botanical gardens.
6 p.m: Meet for dinner to meet the group and Lilian (at own cost).
It’s a grand way to end the day.
Relaxing at the Papyrus Guest House with refreshing drinks and vibrant flowers, a perfect start to your wildlife safari in Uganda.
It’s an early start to the day. After a hearty breakfast, your driver will be ready to drive you in custom designed safari-cruiser to Murchison Falls National Park 350 kms northwest of Entebbe, home of the world’s most powerful waterfall, Murchison Falls. The Nile flows from its source Lake Victoria, that is Africa’s largest lake and the world’s second largest freshwater lake that the world knew nothing about till the British explorer John Hanning Speke saw it and correctly identified it as the source of the Nile on 30 July 1858 – and so solving the greatest mystery that even perplexed the pharaohs.
A close encounter with a white rhino during a trek in Uganda’s Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary.
En route, you will stop at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary (205 km / 4 hours from Entebbe), the only place to see white rhinos is Uganda. Enjoy a rhino trek followed by lunch.
2:00 pm – Depart for Murchison Falls National Park and proceed to the top of the falls (115 km / 2 hours) to see the Nile gush through a 7-metre chasm to fall 43 metres down and continue to the land of the pharoahs.
View of Murchison Falls, where the Nile river dramatically cascades through rocky terrain, surrounded by lush greenery.
Afterwards, continue to Pakuba Safari Lodge (23 km / 40 mins) for dinner and overnight.
The 3,840-square-kilometer park spans the savanna between Lake Albert and Karuma Fall. The park is spectacular for its wildlife and tapestry of grassland, and swamps along the Nile, which at 6,000 kilometres is the world’s longest waterway. Murchison named after the Scottish geologist in 1864 by the 19th century explorer Samuel Baker who trekked the continent accompanied by his wife Florence, was also the first to document Lake Albert straddling the Uganda-Congo border in the Great Rift Valley.
It’s an early start to the day at 6 a.m. Wake up calls can be arranged.
Enjoy a cuppa coffee or tea and biscuits before you set out for an early morning game drive at 6.30 a.m. This is the best time to enjoy wildlife as well as late afternoons before the sun goes down. It’s the time when the animals are most active before the sun becomes too hot for them and lethargy sets in. See Uganda’s endemic wildlife like the Uganda kob and rare ones like the Rothschild giraffe, Patas monkey, oribi and Jackson’s hartebeest. You might see the lionesses would rather hunt when it’s cooler but being opportunistic the hunt is on if the quarry is easy. Lions do not have sweat glands and you’ll hear them panting a lot.
A majestic elephant showcases its grandeur while roaming in the Ugandan wilderness, a highlight of the wildlife safari.
9 a.m. Return to the lodge for breakfast.
Take time to relax, swim, read a book and enjoy the grounds.
12.30 p.m: Enjoy an early lunch, before driving to the waterfalls that squeezes through the seven-metre-wide gorge to crash down 43 metres and continue its flow to the ancient land.
2 p.m: It’s a slow boat ride looking out for the crocodiles and hippos with sightings of the plains game coming to quench their thirst before the thundering roar of the amazing waterfalls. It’s a sight to behold.
The powerful Murchison Falls cascading through lush green landscapes, a must-see on a Uganda wildlife safari.
6.30 p.m: Return to the lodge.
Take some time to refresh with a cold beer at the bar or a cool shower.
7.30 p.m. Meet for another gourmet feast by the Nile and retire after a nightcap by the fire pit.
9 a.m: Depart with packed lunch boxes to Fort Portal (330 km / 6 hours). Check-in at Isunga Lodge in a picturesque setting by the Ruwenzori mountains overlooking Kibale forest that is home to the great ape – chimpanzees.
Chimpanzee in a natural habitat, capturing the essence of Uganda’s wildlife experience.
Afternoon at leisure.
7 p.m: Enjoy dinner and enjoy the rest of the evening.
Sunset over the Mountains of the Moon from Isunga Lodge:
5.45 a.m: Depart with packed lunch boxes for Kibale Forest.
6 a.m: Arrive for a briefing on your chimpanzee habituation experience.
A lively group of chimpanzees interacting in their natural habitat in Uganda’s Kibale Forest, known for its rich biodiversity.
The chimpanzee habituation experience will take the better part of the day. (Depending on the temperament of the chimpanzees, visitors can spend approximately four hours with the chimpanzees once they are located, observing their daily activities like feeding, hunting, and social interactions.)
10:30 a.m: Depart from your lodge with packed lunch boxes and proceed to Queen Elizabeth National Park (105 km / 2 1/2 hours) the iconic 1,978-square-kiometre park in plain sight of the Ruwenzori Mountains or the Mountains of the Moon as the first-century Greek scholar Ptolemy called them and thought of them as the source of the Nile.
Stop briefly at Kasese, a charming town on the foothills of the mountains and enjoy a few minutes at the Equator.
1 p.m: Check-in at Mweya Safari Lodge.
3.30 p.m: Afternoon game drive.
A lioness resting among the branches of a tree, showcasing the unique behavior of tree-climbing lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park.
The park, named after the late British monarch’s 1952 visit, is famous for its tree climbing lions besides the elephants, Uganda Kob and an impressive list of 600 species of birds.
Relish the views from the lodge on the peninsula that straddles the wildlife-rich Kazinga Channel and Lake Edward. The 32-km long channel connects the two great African lakes – Edward and George.
6.30 p.m: Enjoy cocktails by the campfire before a sumptuous dinner freshly prepared under the Equatorial stars. For star gazers, this is the perfect spot to see the constellations of the two hemispheres.
Luxurious views at Mweya Safari Lodge overlooking the stunning Kazinga Channel and Lake Edward in Queen Elizabeth National Park.
Enjoy your evening and a good night’s sleep in your luxurious abode.
Another glorious morning in Africa. Rise and shine for an early morning game drive at 6.15 after a cuppa. The landscape is surreal with the Mountains of the Moon with the snow-topped high peak at 16,762 feet, making it Africa’s third highest mountain.
Return for breakfast by 9 a.m.
After lunch, prepare for another exciting boat ride along the famous Kazinga Channel, a 32-kilometer- long link between the Albertine Valley’s Lake Edward and Lake George. The channel boasts the world’s largest concentration of hippos, crocodiles, elephant, buffaloes and waterbucks coming for a drink. For birders, it’s time to log in the amazing birdlife that include the Pelicans, Fish Eagles, Kingfishers, Cormorants and the bright coloured Saddle-billed Stork.
A scenic boat ride on the Kazinga Channel, watching elephants come to drink at the bank.
Return for a starlit dinner followed by a night cap by the campfire and finally to a peaceful slumber in your luxurious room.
8 a.m: Depart with packed lunch boxes and proceed to Buhoma on the edge of the spectacular Bwindi Impenetrable Forest on the edge of the Albertine Rift. (165 km / 4 hours).
A misty landscape of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, home to Mountain Gorillas and rich biodiversity, showcasing the enchanting atmosphere of thisunique ecosystem.
Bwindi takes its name from the dense forest that the locals call ‘Place of Darkness’. This is the home of more than half of the world’s population of the Mountain Gorillas – only discovered in Bwindi in 1987 from their night nests in the trees.
12 noon: Check-in at the lodge.
2 p.m: After an exquisite lunch, leave for an afternoon with the villagers, learn their collaboration with Dr. Gladys’s globally acclaimed NGO, Conservation Through Public Health and visit the Gorilla Health and Community Centre, where fecal samples from gorillas and livestock are analyzed and people learn about the disease vectors that harm sensitive gorilla populations.
Dr. Glady Kalema-Zikusoka , Uganda’s first wildlife vet and founder of Conservation Through Public Health
Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka is also the author of the best-selling ‘Walking With Gorillas’ that is about the Bwindi gorillas and her journey as Uganda’s first wildlife vet. You will get to know some fascinating insights into what it takes to save the Mountain gorillas – which is all about co-existence between the primate (us) and the non-human primate (gorillas, chimpanzees plus some 500 more species). I’m not telling you more.
6.30 p.m.: Take a few minutes to refresh before dinner on your first night in Bwindi, that is one the most bio-diverse places on Earth.
Relaxing seating area on a porch overlooking the lush greenery of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
Dinner will be served fused with the rich forest air and lots of lively exchanges with the excitement of meeting the gorillas.
This is your day for an encounter with the greatest ape on Earth – the Mountain gorilla.
6.30 a.m: Meet for breakfast and a short drive will have you at the legendary impenetrable forest for an exciting day of hiking for our close relative with who we share 98.4% of our genes.
You will be accompanied by a gorilla guardian working with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka who knows many of the gorillas by name and give you a first-hand insight into their world.
A Mountain gorilla enjoying a meal in the lush greens of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
Thanks to the work of Dr Gladys and CTPH founded in 2003, the population of Bwindi’s Mountain gorilla is on the rise from 300 in 1999 to 459 and increasing. The Mountain gorilla is the only gorilla species whose population is increasing which has seen it removed from being listed as Critically endangered to Endangered.
The forest is also home to the extremely rare Forest elephant that number 300. If we see one with the Great Blue Turaco, a bird of the rainforests – we will be one of the few to ever witness this!
Once you sight the gorillas, you will be permitted to view them for 1 hour before returning to the ranger post.
Depending on the duration of the hike, return to the lodge for a late lunch and then you have the afternoon to yourself in this magical paradise.
Relish your last night in the home of the great ape and all the endangered species that Bwindi is home to and make a toast that this paradise will be theirs’ forever.
7 a.m: After a sumptuous breakfast depart from your lodge at 8 a.m. with packed lunch boxes
12.30: Arrive at Mabamba Shoebill Community Site (215 km / 4 1/2 hours). Mabamba Bay Swamp is a prime wetland birding site famous for the elusive shoebill, a prehistoric bird. Enjoy a boat ride with bird viewing and very good chances of seeing it and many more species.
Close-up of a Shoebill, an iconic bird species found in Uganda’s Mabamba Swamp, renowned for its prehistoric appearance.
This lasts around 2 hours.
3 p.m: Drive to Entebbe (90 km / 2 1/2 hours). Drop off at your hotel in Entebbe or at Entebbe Airport (night flights only).
There will be a lot of memories to take back home after your amazing African safari with new friends met.
A take from the Great ape safari in the words of the first person to study gorillas in the wild, Dian Fossey:
”The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla … you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future.”
Day room or overnight:
Additional nights at Papyrus Guest House Entebbe (before or after your safari and includes an airport transfer):
USD 95 per person sharing twin / USD 110 per person single
COST:
Per Person: US$ 6,548
Per Person Sharing: US$ 5,955
Package includes:
1 night accommodation at Papyrus Guest House Entebbe, on bed & breakfast basis
2 nights accommodation at Pakubaa Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, on full board basis
2 nights accommodation at Isunga Lodge, Fort Portal, on full board basis
2 nights accommodation at Mweya Safari Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park, on full board basis
2 nights accommodation at Haven Lodge Buhoma Community, Bwindi, on full board basis
1 night accommodation at Rwakobo Rock Lodge, Lake Mburo, on full board basis
Arrival transfer (airport-hotel) in Entebbe (Day 1)
4×4 Safari Landcruiser with driver-guide on safari (Day 2-Day 11)
Murchison Falls: A rhino trek at Ziwa (en-route); A visit to the top of the falls; 1 Game drive; A boat cruise to the base of the falls
Fort Portal/Kibale: 1 chimpanzee habituation permit per person
Queen Elizabeth National Park: 2 Game drives, A boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: 1 gorilla tracking permit per person, Gorilla Guardian working with CTPA guiding group; visit to the CTPA centre and to a community village to see its collaboration with CTPA.
Lake Mburo: 1 game drive; A visit to Mabamba Shoebill Site en-route from Lake Mburo to Entebbe
National park entrance fees
All statutory taxes
Not included:
Lunch and dinner in Entebbe
Beverages, incidentals, gratuities and items of a personal nature
Any items not mentioned under the above inclusions
Additional nights at Papyrus Guest House Entebbe (before or after your safari and includes an airport transfer) at USD 75 per person sharing twin / USD 95 per person single
Join us on an unforgettable adventure with us on Uganda’s Great Ape safari!
Contact: Rupi Mangat – CEO, Moonlion Safaris
Email: rupi.mangat@yahoo.com
More on Rupi Mangat
Rupi is a travel writer with a particular concentration on wildlife conservation and sustainability. She is 3rd generation Kenyan who has been on safari countless times since she started writing professionally in 1998. She works with the Wildlife Clubs of Kenya as the editor of Komba, the magazine to promote wildlife conservation amongst schoolchildren. With her strong connections with conservation organizations like the East African Wild Life Society and the Conservation Through Public Health which are not-for-profits doing amazing wildlife conservation work in today’s challenging world.
Above: Blacktip Reef Sahrk in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
Sharks have suffered bad press with ‘Jaws’ sending shivers down the spine. Yet not all species are blood-thirsty human-seeking predators and many are actually harmless. Little is known about the sharks that swim in the Kenyan waters of the Indian Ocean but here’s marine researcher Peter Musila of A Rocha (Portuguese word for The Rock), the Christian conservation organization, enlightening us about these ocean creatures.
1. Whitetip Reef Sharks
Whitetip Reef Shark in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
Listed as ‘Critically endangered’ in the recent IUCN Red List, it means they are one step away from being listed as extinct in the wild. These nocturnal sharks are rarely seen during the day, preferring to spend the day resting under rocks and crevices in coral reefs and shallow water. They come out at night to hunt when their prey is asleep or off guard like octopuses, squid, fish, and crustaceans like crabs and lobsters.
They are very shy of people and will quickly swim away when they see a diver approaching and are quite harmless to humans.
Whitetips are not large sharks. Most are about five feet rarely reaching seven feet. You can see them along the Western Indian Ocean and the larger Indo-Pacific region.
2. Blacktip Reef Sharks
Blacktip Reef Sahrk in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
Blacktips are also not big sharks and grow to lengths of five feet and found along the coastlines of Pacific regions, such as Thailand, Japan, the Philippines, New Caledonia and northern Australia. They are also found in the Indian Ocean from South Africa to the Red Sea. Although they are listed ‘Near threatened’ on the IUCN Red List, Blacktips are common in Watamu Marine National Park and can be seen swimming in big numbers along the inner reef.
“Blacktips are not a threat to people, considering that Watamu gets thousands of tourists swimming in the intertidal shallow beaches where we see most of these reef sharks and no shark attack has ever been recorded here,” states Musila.
The A Rocha marine team is monitoring this species to study its behaviour, habitat, and threats.
Related to sharks are rays. Look out for these in Watamu:
3. Marbled Electric Rays
Marbled electric ray in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
These beautifully patterned rays are found in deeper waters along the coral reef, and also sometimes near the shore in rock pools and caves in shallow lagoons. Small compared to other types of rays, they can grow to about 50 cm in length. They are nocturnal and hunt at night. They spend the day buried in the ocean floor, so if you are really lucky, you might see one during the day.
“They have electric organs at the base of their pectoral fins that generate a strong, electric discharge to subdue prey like eels and fish and to drive off predators,” explains Musila.
“They are one of the most fascinating creatures in the ocean,” continues the marine researcher. “They move very slowly, yet they can produce 10-200 volts of electricity (depending on the species) either to protect themselves from predators or to catch their food. Afterward, it would take them several days to recharge their glands.”
4. Honeycomb Whiprays
Honeycomb Whipray in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ which means population decreasing on the IUCN Red List, they are seen in the park’s shallow sea grass beds and sand patches. Reaching up to six feet in length, they have beautiful spots that get crowded as they grow which gives them their name – honeycomb.
“They have a very long whip-like tail and hence the name,” says Musila. “But their sting is not lethal. However, there are other species of rays (stingrays) that have a sharp spine in their tails that can produce a very painful sting if accidentally stepped on.”
Also tells Musila, “Rays are often caught by fishermen in Watamu because they are actually tasty.”
Guitarfish in Watamu Marirne National Park. Courtesy A Rocha Kenya marine team
A Critically Endangered species close to becoming extinct in the wild, the Halavi guitarfish is found in the sea grass and sandy beds of the marine park.
“These are quite rare to see,” informs Musila. “They are called guiterfish because of their shape which is an elongated body and a wedge-shaped snout that resembles a guitar.”
Best way to see these creatures?
Marine reasearcher Peter Musila. Pic courtesy Seas 4 Life by Ali Argün
“It’s by snorkeling/scuba diving in the reef or patrolling the sandy beaches along the marine park,” says Musila.
How you can help conserve these creatures?
“The biggest threat to sharks and rays range from overfishing and habitat destruction to pollution and unsustainable human development,” says Musila. “You can help conserve them by just being curious to learn, participating in restoration activities like beach clean-ups and tree planting, and being a little less wasteful because so much ends up in the ocean as trash.”
Words of Wisdom
“Be respectful to marine life, do NOT touch anything, whether live or dead, do NOT step on corals and do NOT feed the fish. Learn about marine life and the ecosystems so you can help with their conservation.”
A few metres from the beach and the marine park, it offers clean and simple accommodation to anyone who loves nature including longer-term resident researchers. It is a Christian organization, so do respect etiquette.
Mountain gorillas, Lions & The Nile on a Wildlife Safari
Nov 22-29, 2024
Duration: 7 nights, 8 days
Group size: 5 max
Overview:
A safari in Uganda takes you to her Mountain gorillas and the Nile, meeting her people and lavishing in the richness of landscapes that makes Uganda, the Pearl of Africa. Join Rupi Mangat, a third generation local and a leading Kenyan travel writer who lives in this tropical paradise on the Equator, the denizen of big game – elephants and rhino; lions, leopards and cheetahs; rhinos and mighty raptors that soar the skies.
Imagine adventure-filled days on a mountain, the sweeping savannah and on the mighty Nile revered from the era of the pharaohs. Be amazed by Uganda’s wildlife that is a treasure-trove of life on earth – from the endangered Mountain gorillas to the endemic Uganda kob; from the prehistoric Shoebill to the predators and prey of the African plains.
You will be enchanted.
November is one of the most exciting months to be on safari and watch the land turn lush and green at the end of the short rains. Typically the days are interspersed with spells of showers followed by hours of sunshine for the wildlife (and us) to soak in.
Highlights
Luxury Safari in three diverse wildlife areas
Seeing Africa’s big game including the gorillas and chimpanzees in the wild
Trek for the Mountain gorilla with the award-winning CTPH gorilla guardians
Stay in unique wildlife lodges, one by the Nile
See Uganda’s, rare endemic animals only found in Uganda
Stay in a luxury hotel on the shores of the world’s 2nd largest freshwater lake that is the source of the Nile
Sail the Nile to the most powerful waterfall in the world
Be awed by the Mountains of the Moon
Toast to Africa every evening
Indulge in mouth-watering international and Uganda’s cuisine
Your days will be filled with watching the big cats like the lions and leopards, and elephants and all that African wildlife in diverse parks with iconic backdrops like the Mountains of the Moon i.e. the Ruwenzoris and ending each day with a toast to the wild in the glow of the ‘golden light’.
You will meet the gorilla guardians working with the dynamic Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoma founder of the award-winning Conservation Through Public Health who will amaze you with the success story of Uganda’s Mountain gorillas and the local people living there.
->Want to see Mountain gorillas, then you got to safari in Uganda!
PS: Since then in 2015, Mountain gorillas numbers are up: 1,063 from 800
More on the African safari
This specially curated safari is for you to be awed by Uganda’s iconic Great Apes that are the gorillas and the chimpanzees and Africa’s amazing wildlife. You will meet the dynamic community who working pioneering gorilla research projects in Uganda that gives you a front seat view of conservation in the 21st century.
All lodges are luxurious with en suite baths and toilets, some with spas, swimming pools and all with mouth-watering gourmet meals. This safari is for people who want to see the Great Apes in the wild, love nature, big and small game, birds and plants while also enjoying the finer things in life.
More on our Host, Rupi Mangat
Rupi is a travel writer with a particular concentration on wildlife conservation and sustainability. She is 3rd generation Kenyan who has been on safari countless times since she started writing professionally in 1998. She works with the Wildlife Clubs of Kenya as the editor of Komba, the magazine to promote wildlife conservation amongst schoolchildren. With her strong connections with conservation organizations like the East African Wild Life Society and the Conservation Through Public Health which are not-for-profits doing amazing wildlife conservation work in today’s challenging world.
Day 1 Friday 22nd November
Fly into Entebbe the lakeshore city of Uganda. You will be met at the airport by our representative who will guide you through arrival. You will then be driven by your driver-guide to your hotel, the Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort& Spa.
The Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort is one of Entebbe’s finest hotels on the shores of Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile, the world’s longest river.
The day is at leisure. The hotel is a few minutes’ drive to the central business district. Entebbe works at a leisurely pace. The core of the city boasts early colonial architecture and the Entebbe zoo. Or you may just want to enjoy a sundowner on the lake, a round of golf on the PGA-rated 18-hole course or treat yourself at the spa before the safari (at own cost).
6 p.m: We will meet at the Marina Restaurant overlooking the lake for sundowners and dinner (at own cost).
It’s an early start to the day. After a hearty breakfast AT the Citadel we will fly to Murchison Falls National Park 350 kms northwest of Entebbe, home of the world’s most powerful waterfall, Murchison Falls. It’s a 45-minute flight over Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake and the world’s second largest freshwater lake that the world knew nothing about till the British explorer John Hanning Speke saw it and correctly identified it as the source of the Nile on 30 July 1858 – and so solving the greatest mystery that even perplexed the pharaohs.
We will be collected from the Pakuba airstrip and cross the bridge over the Nile to Paraa Safari Lodge looking over the cataracts over the Nile.
We will enjoy a game drive en route in our custom-made safari cruisers driven by expert driver/guides.
The 3,840-square-kilometer park spans the savanna between Lake Albert and Karuma Fall. The park is spectacular for its wildlife and tapestry of grassland, and swamps along the Nile, which at 6,000 kilometres is the world’s longest waterway. Murchison named after the Scottish geologist in 1864 by the 19th century explorer Samuel Baker who trekked the continent accompanied by his wife Florence, was also the first to document Lake Albert straddling the Uganda-Congo border in the Great Rift Valley.
By now it’s lunch time.
1 p.m. – Enjoy your gourmet lunch buffet by the Nile where you might see buffaloes or crocodiles lounging on the banks.
4 p.m. – We will leave for an afternoon game drive in search of big game like Uganda’s unique Uganda Kob and Rothschild giraffe with lions and elephants for a good measure. The park also boasts rich birdlife. We will return to the lodge at sunset.
7.30 p.m. – we will meet for a cocktail at the bar and then dine on delicious foods as the Nile flows leisurely by. We’ll exchange the day’s highlights and enjoy the night sky before calling it a night.
It’s an early start to the day at 6 a.m. Wake up calls can be arranged.
Enjoy a cuppa coffee or tea and biscuits before you set out for an early morning game drive at 6.30 a.m. This is the best time to enjoy wildlife as well as late afternoons before the sun goes down. It’s the time when the animals are most active before the sun becomes too hot for them and lethargy sets in. The lionesses would rather hunt when it’s cooler but being opportunistic the hunt is on if the quarry is easy. Lions do not have sweat glands and you’ll hear them panting a lot.
By 9 a.m. we will be back at the lodge for breakfast.
Take time to relax, swim, read a book and enjoy the grounds.
Optional:Balloon safari: After a cuppa tea/coffee, we will depart for a thrilling balloon safari (Please wear long pants and warm jacket, a hat and shoes) at sunrise with a champagne breakfast on landing. It’s a novel way of game watching catching an eagle’s eye view of the land and life below.
10 a.m.: We will enjoy a game drive enroute to the lodge.
12.30 p.m: We’ll enjoy an early lunch, before driving to the waterfalls that squeezes through the six-metre-wide gorge to crash down 43 metres and continue its flow to the pharoses’ land.
It’s a slow boat ride looking out for the crocodiles and hippos with sightings of the plains game coming to quench their thirst before the thundering roar of the amazing waterfalls. It’s a sight to behold.
We will return to the lodge by 6.30 p.m.
Take some time to refresh with a cold beer at the bar or a cool shower.
7.30 p.m. We’ll meet for another gourmet feast by the Nile and retire after a nightcap by the fire pit.
After breakfast we will depart to the airstrip for a 40-minute flight to Queen Elizabeth National Park in plain sight of the Ruwenzori Mountains or the Mountains of the Moon as the first century Greek scholar Ptolemy called them and thought of them as the source of the Nile.
We will land at Kasese, a charming town on the foothills of the mountains and be driven to the iconic 1,978-square-kiometre park on the Equator with an amazing array of landscapes and wildlife.
The park, named after the late British monarch’s 1952 visit, is famous for its tree climbing lions and chimpanzees besides the elephants, Uganda Kob and an impressive list of 600 species of birds.
On arrival at noon at Elephant Plains Lodge, we will enjoy lunch and relax at the lodge by the beautiful Lake Kikorongo, a popular drinking hole for the elephants – hence the name of the lodge.
At 3.30 p.m. we will embark on another exciting game drive through the lush Kasenyi plains. Look out for leopard, lions and the Uganda Kob that breeds here before returning to camp at sunset.
We’ll be back just in time for cocktails by the campfire before a sumptuous dinner freshly prepared under the Equatorial stars. For star gazers, this is the perfect spot to see the constellations of the two hemispheres.
Enjoy your evening and a good night’s sleep in your luxurious abode.
Another glorious morning in Africa. Rise and shine for an early morning game drive at 6.15 after a cuppa. The landscape is surreal with the Mountains of the Moon with the snow-topped high peak at 16,762 feet, making it Africa’s third highest mountain.
Return for breakfast by 9 a.m.
Optional – extra cost US$ 50 Per person: After breakfast, we will hike into Gorge for another Great Ape before we meet the Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi. These are the chimpanzees of Kyambura, playful and endearing. We’ll spend an hour with them before returning to lodge/picnic lunch. The gorge, 100 meters deep and 16 kilometers long, carved by the Kyambura River is the home of other primates like the red-tailed monkeys plus a myriad of colourful forest birds.
After lunch, prepare for another exciting boat ride along the famous Kazinga Channel, a 32-kilometer- long link between the Albertine Valley’s Lake Edward and Lake George. The channel boasts the world’s largest concentration of hippos, crocodiles, elephant, buffaloes and waterbucks coming for a drink. For birders, it’s time to log in the amazing birdlife that include the Pelicans, Fish Eagles, Kingfishers, Cormorants and the bright coloured Saddle-billed Stork.
Return for a starlit dinner followed by a night cap by the campfire and finally to a peaceful slumber in your luxurious room.
A 30-minute flight from Queen Elizabeth National Park, will have us land in Bwindi on the edge of the Albertine Rift. It’s a mesmeric flight over the Ruwenzoris and the lakes and on to the dense forest that the locals call Place of Darkness. This is the home of more than half of the world’s population of the Mountain Gorillas – only discovered in Bwindi in 1987 from their night nests in the trees.
We will be collected from the airstrip and driven to Mahogany Springs, our luxury address for the night overlooking the high forest-clad vales of Bwindi.
After check-in, relax and enjoy an exquisite lunch before leaving for an afternoon with the villagers, learn their collaboration with Dr. Gladys’s globally acclaimed NGO, Conservation Through Public Health before returning at sunset to the lodge.
Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka is also the author of the best-selling ‘Walking With Gorillas’ that is about the Bwindi gorillas and her journey as Uganda’s first wildlife vet. You will get to know some fascinating insights into what it takes to save the Mountain gorillas – which is all about co-existence between the primate (us) and the non-human primate (gorillas, chimpanzees plus some 500 more species). I’m not telling you more.
After lunch, one of the Gorilla guardians will accompany us on the afternoon village walk and introduce you to some of the people and projects under CTPH.
Optional: You can spend the afternoon at the Spa or take a short nature walk around the lodge.
6 p.m.: Take a few minutes to refresh before we meet for cocktails on you first night in Bwindi, that is one the most bio-diverse places on Earth.
Dinner will be served fused with the rich forest air and lots of lively exchanges with the excitement of meeting the gorillas.
Day 7 Thursday 28th November
This is your day for an encounter with the greatest ape on Earth – the Mountain gorilla.
6.30 a.m: We will meet for breakfast and a short drive will bring us to the legendary impenetrable forest for an exciting day of hiking for our close relative with who we share 98.4% of our genes.
We will be accompanied by CTPH’s Gorilla guardian who knows many of the gorillas by name and give us a first-hand insight into their world. Thanks to the work of Dr Gladys and CTPH founded in 2003, the population of Bwindi’s Mountain gorilla is on the rise from 300 in 1999 to 459 and increasing. The Mountain gorilla is the only gorilla species whose population is increasing which has seen it removed from being listed as Critically endangered to Endangered.
The forest is also home to the extremely rare Forest elephant that number 300. If we see one with the Great Blue Turaco, a bird of the rainforests – we will be one of the few to ever witness this!
Depending on the duration of the hike, we will return to the lodge for a late lunch and then you have the afternoon to yourself in this magical paradise.
We will relish our last night in the home of the great ape and all the endangered species that Bwindi is home to and make a toast that this paradise will be theirs’ forever.
Wake up to the crystal-fresh air of the mountains for a sumptuous breakfast after which we will say goodbye to this enchanting paradise, a special place on the planet and by now in your heart.
We’ll fly back to Entebbe to arrive by midday and head to the Entebbe International Airport for your return flights. There will be a lot of memories to take back home after your amazing African safari with new friends met.
Day room or overnight: *HOTEL CLOSEST TO AIRPORT
To paraphrase Dian Fossey: ”The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla … and when you realize the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future.”
We hope to welcome you back.
COST:
Group size of 5 adults
Per Person: US$ 6,700
Per Person Sharing: US$ 6,200
THE PACKAGE INCLUDES:
1 night accommodation at Lake Victoria Serena Golf Resort & Spa on bed & breakfast basis and arrival airport transfer
2 nights accommodation at Paraa Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park on full board basis
2 nights accommodation at Elephant Plains Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park on full board basis
2 nights accommodation at Mahogany Springs Lodge on full board basis
1 gorilla tracking permit per person at the Buhoma area of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
2 game drives at Queen Elizabeth National Park / 2 game drives at Murchison Falls National Park
An excursion to the top of the falls
Boat cruise at Queen Elizabeth National Park and Murchison Falls National Park
Flights on Aerolink as indicated above
Round trip airport transfers and transfer to the trekking point
National park entrance fees
All statutory taxes
NOT INCLUDED:
Beverages, incidentals, gratuities and items of a personal nature
Additional meals in Kampala or Entebbe
Entry fees to any places of interest
Optional porter, should you require a porter during the trek (payable direct)
Optional nature walk or bird walk of $30 per person (non-residents / residents) or Shs. 10,000 per person (East Africans) – payable direct
Any optional extra activities not indicated above
*Park fee might increase from government directive which will be billed to client. Current price is US$ 40 per person per night.
Join in on the Ugandan Great Ape safari
Contact: Rupi Mangat – CEO, Rupi the African Trotter Safaris
Moonlion Safaris 