2013 Ecotourism Journalist of the Year (Ecotourism Society of Kenya) | Editor, Komba Magazine (Wildlife Clubs of Kenya) | Contributor, The East African and Saturday Magazine (Nation)
A dry lake bed catches the eye near Iremeto Gate into Amboseli National Park off the Emali Road. On a whim, we decide to take a walk over the small hill to the dry pan that looks similar to the dry Lake Amboseli inside the park in the shadow of Kilimanjaro.
Months-old dry elephant dung near a waterless lake outside Amboseli National Park Copyright Maya Mangat
On the trail of the elephant dung Copyright Maya Mangat
To the dry lake bed outside Amboseli National Park Copyright Maya Mangat
The animals begin to arrive at the Ark. More than two at a time. And the stage is set at the salient for the evening’s entertainment. Of the two thousand elephants in the Aberdares, there’s a herd of twenty at the waterhole. The baby in the family fits squarely under the belly between its mother’s legs. It’s a beautiful scene with the floodlights of the Ark and the full moon.
The elephant family nudge clumps of soil with their toes to lick the salt on the salient. A huge male blows a trunk-full of dust over itself while some in the herd dangle their trunks in the waterhole for a drink.
Black rhino killed by elephant in front of Ark lodge on night of 6th May 1979 Copyright picture Rupi Mangat
Chania waterfall in the Aberdares Copyright picture Luca Borghesio
Meanwhile, a pair of Grey crowned cranes – a bird that’ increasingly rare to find – come to the swamp as do the night birds. An owl hoots and lands on the rock by the water pool. The elephant family leave just as a trio of Spotted hyenas lumber in. They play amongst themselves and lie down to rest for some time before something catches their attention. It’s a family of the Giant forest hog busy foraging on the lush scrub around the Ark. The Giant hogs weighing up to 150 kilograms outstare the hyenas and the show is over as the hyenas skulk away.
The lighthouse at Lake Victoria Safari Village – love to sleep in it Copyright picture by Maya Mangat
Lights flicker in the dark as lanterns appear on the lake. At first it seems like city lights being turned on. It’s a spectacular sight, the fishermen spreading their nets in the lake, attached to floating lanterns whose light will lure the tiny omena into them.
We’re standing high on the only light house at Lake Victoria Safari Village on the shores of Winam Gulf – an extension of Lake Victoria on the northeastern side. The lights increase filling the horizon and look amazing while the sky sparkles with constellations, the Scorpian unfurling its tail in the dark night.
Sailing to Sindo past the volcanic Gembe Hill – the lakebed has a layer of volcanic rubble Copyright picture by Maya Mangat
It’s a beautiful night with a breeze but for the fishermen it’s a hard life having to battle the waves and the winds.
Sleeping in the Light House is amazing – built by Odd Bredo, a structural engineer – using a toy model for proportions.
From late September to early January, Lesser Flamingo’s breed at Lake Natron.
The locations are relatively predictable (see map). Lesser Flamingo build cones out of mud as the water levels decline and lay a single egg on top of the cone. The young fledge and then form a creche and move towards fresh water on the fringes of the lake basin. From the time when the egg hatches until the juvenile bird is able to walk through the water, they are susceptible to disturbance.
I have developed a map below to give you some idea of where the breeding grounds are,you should avoid low flying over those areas between September and January.
Spread the word and if you have any questions please feel free to email me.
Organized by Bio-Ken snake farm that milks snakes for medical research and for the preparation of anti-venom. It provides anti-venom to treat victims of poisonous snake-bite and, with the help of the James Ashe Antivenom Trust (JAAT), it provides it free of charge to those unable to afford it.