Tuskers at Thomson’s Falls

Published Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper 1st April 2017

Above: The gorge with Ewaso Nyiro river flowing from the wetland at Nyahururu via Thomson’s Falls to Lorian swamp in the arid lands – copyright Rupi Mangat

Thomson’s Falls in Nyahururu reveals more in its ravine flowing in the depths of South Marmanet Forest

DSC06811 (800x600)
Elephants deep in the gorge – need a zoom lens to capture them – copyright Rupi Mangat

“The elephants have been spotted,” announces Walter Muriithi of Panari Resort Nyahururu sandwiched between the rocky gorge of Thomson’s Falls and South Marmanet Forest. We rush out to drive the few kilometres around the forest bordered by local farms and stop at the electric fence. It’s a deterrent to keep the elephants from raiding the farms.

Continue reading “Tuskers at Thomson’s Falls”

Wandering on the island of Wasini

 

Above: Coral garden at low tide on Wasini – copyright Rupi Mangat

Published Saturday magazine Nation newspaper 25 March 2017

A dug-out canoe sails to the dhow anchored in Wasini Channel to paddle me to the shores of the island. In a few minutes we’re on the ancient island of fossilized coral. Wasini once a little village of makuti-thatched coral rag single-storey houses now has a few multi-floored brick buildings coming up. The century-old, ‘Arab’ houses are beginning to crumble and replaced with modern brick.

Our first port of call is to the island restaurant Kaole. Plate after plate of mouth-watering Swahili dishes waft out of the deceptively simple kitchen of the restaurant on coral rag floor and four walls with open frontage to the channel. We’re fed on crab delivered on wooden platters which Husni the waiter knocks the shell open to show diners how to tease the meat out. The table fills with spiced seaweed with chapatti, ‘wali’ and cassava cooked in coconut milk and more. We eat to our fill with the ocean breeze cooling the afternoon temperatures.

DSC06323 (800x600)
Yummy Crabs at Kaole restaurant – copyright  Rupi Mangat

Continue reading “Wandering on the island of Wasini”

Waterfalls and legends of Mutito Hills

Published Saturday Nation magazine

The dam in the forest -copyright Rupi Mangat
The dam in the forest -copyright Rupi Mangat

18 March 2017

Kitui county’s little-known hill in its southern side is a show stopper

This is drama fit for Nat Geo Wild. There’s a sheer copper-coloured cliff in front of us. We’re perched on a rocky outcrop by the side of a dam deep in the forested hills of Mutito. The dam that provides clean fresh water to the town of Mutito was built in the 1930s by British missionary and still functions.

Continue reading “Waterfalls and legends of Mutito Hills”

Hiking Muumoni

Published Saturday magazine, Nation media 11 March 2017

Kitui’s little-known hills are fascinating biodiversity hotspots

Above: Mau Mau cave in Muumoni hills – copyright Rupi Mangat

DSC06382 (800x600)A deep narrow gorge cuts across the land. It’s full of forest and steep slopes that few venture into. We’re 30 kilometers west of Kitui the capital of Kitui county and had we been alone, we’d miss Ikoo Valley by the side of the road.

“We are developing all the sites that we have for tourism in Kitui county,” says Christine Kaveke Mwendwe, the county’s tourism officer. Standing by the valley, it’s an exciting time for the county’s tourism team that came in 2014. “Before that there was nothing happening on the tourism front,” says Khalid Mahmud the chief tourism officer.

About the size of Rwanda, Kitui is the new kid on the block.

Continue reading “Hiking Muumoni”

Dhow to Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park

Published Saturday magazine Nation media 4 March 2017

It’s exciting jumping into a local dhow anchored at Shimoni pier. From where we are the Kenya-Tanzania border is 50 kilometers south at Lunga Lunga. The narrow Wasini Channel separates mainland Africa from the island of Wasini and we set sail for a morning of hopeful sightings of dolphins and snorkelling in the coral gardens of Kisite-Mpunguti.

Continue reading “Dhow to Kisite-Mpunguti Marine National Park”