Trying for Chimpanzees

Discovering more of the Nile at Murchison Falls and looking for chimpanzees in Uganda

Published 19 August 2017 – Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper

Above: Chimpanzee baby playing in the forest – Image by: Michael Nichols

Part 2 of 2

“When the crocodile jumps into the boat, you jump out,” tells our guide on the sail to reach the base of Murchison falls.

The Nile crocodile on the banks of the Nile near Murchison Falls - copyright Rupi Mangat
The Nile crocodile on the banks of the Nile near Murchison Falls – copyright Rupi Mangat

The Nile crocodile is gigantic – almost 15 feet long lying still as a statue with gaping jaws revealing a set of sharp-pointed teeth. My childhood memory is of the banks lined with crocodiles – we see only four now.

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Made it to Murchison Falls, Uganda

Part 1 of 2

Published in Saturday Nation 12 August 2017

Just 20-feet wide and 130 feet down - the whole of Victoria pours its waters into this magnificent river at Murchison Falls Copyright Rupi Mangat
Just 20-feet wide and 130 feet down – the whole of Victoria pours its waters into this magnificent river at Murchison Falls Copyright Rupi Mangat

In 1907, Winston Churchill the English statesman stood where we stand and exclaimed ’10 pounds will suffice to throw an iron bride across’. We’re on top of Murchison Falls, our faces wet with the spray of the water where the mighty Nile, reputed to be the world’s longest river squeezes through its narrowest point – just 20 feet across to crash some 130 feet down over red rocks that gleam in the morning sun.

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Epic Safari to Murchison Falls

The falls raged – our faces wet with the spray of water. Not from any ordinary river but the great Nile. Here we were, my nephew and l standing on sheer rock, spell bound by the force of the falls.

Murchison Falls - from the top. The Bakers' chanced upon it in 1864 coming back from Lake Albert (again they were the first European explorers to see it). Their boat was raised out of the water by a hippo and they had to jump on shore! Copyright: Rupi Mangat
Murchison Falls – from the top. The Bakers’ chanced upon it in 1864 coming back from Lake Albert (again they were the first European explorers to see it). Their boat was raised out of the water by a hippo and they had to jump on shore! Copyright: Rupi Mangat
The Nile crocodile on the banks of the Nile near Murchison Falls - copyright Rupi Mangat
The Nile crocodile on the banks of the Nile near Murchison Falls – copyright Rupi Mangat

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Nyota House in Stone Town Lamu

Published Saturday Magazine,Nation newspaper 5 August 2017

“This part of town was called Utukuni,” states Hadija Ernst of Save Lamu, a coalition of 36 local NGOs to promote Lamu’s sustainable development, while protecting its culture, history and natural resources.

Utukuni in Kiswahili means market. “It was a market street where the merchants had their warehouses.”

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Nyahururu’s Historical Church

Published Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper 29 July 2017

Above: A.I.C. Church Nyahururu

A tall silver spire breaks the tree line beyond the gorge of the Ewaso Nyiro River flowing from Thomson’s Falls in Nyahururu. “It’s an old church,” tells Pushpa Ratna of Nyahururu Panari, that’s sandwiched between the gorge and Marmanet forest, and within an easy walk to the hippo pools and the historic falls first reported to the outside world by the intrepid Joseph Thomson in 1883. He is also the first European to walk from the coast to Lake Victoria through central Kenya which was deemed dangerous because of the fearsome Maasai.

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