The Delta Delights: Sailing downstream the Tana Delta

Published: Travel News magazine: Dec 2019-Jan 2020

It’s a moonless night.

Above the Scorpion unfurls its tail across the delta’s width before the river crashes into the ocean. I’m enjoying a lone sail with the boatman along the mangrove-lined river with its dunes silhouetted against the night sky. Everything is elemental, pure and magical. As the stars sparkle above, the water is lit with phosphoresce.

This is heaven on earth.

A room at Delta Dunes. Copright Rupi Mangat. One time use only (800x600)
A room on the dunes at Delta Dunes. Copyright Rupi Mangat.

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Barefoot on the Beach in Malindi, Kenya

Above: Barefoot Beach Camp dining by the beach at Ungwana Bay near Malindi Copyright Rupi Mangat

Published: Saturday Magazine, Nation media 11 January 2020

The sand dunes stretch along the ocean and l’m barefoot on the beach. It’s the ethos of being at the Barefoot Beach Camp, an unpretentious little camp tucked away in a secluded bay 20 kilometres north of Malindi.

Sand dunes by Barefoot Beach camp near Malindi Copyright Rupi Mangat (800x600)
Sand dunes by Barefoot Beach Camp near Malindi Copyright Rupi Mangat

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Visiting an Orma Village in Tana Delta

Above: Orma at a wedding ceremony

Published: 23 November 2019

It’s twilight, that magical moment when the sun has travelled the sky to end the day. In that golden moment we’re on the banks of the Tana before it branches out into the famed delta by the same name.

The Tana River where the critically endagnered Tana River Red colobus monkeys arefound near Garsen. Copyright Rupi Mangat (800x600)
The Tana River where the critically endangered Tana River Red colobus monkeys are found near Garsen. Copyright Rupi Mangat

The river is calm. The dugout canoe is tied to a pole on the opposite bank for no one will cross during the night. Tall borassus palms straddle the banks like monoliths, their strong trunks silver in the evening light and the fan-shaped leaves slightly rustling with the breeze.

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From Kalota to Kipini on Tana Delta

Above: From the arch of the mosque near Fumo Liyogo’s grave near Kipini on the tip of Tana Delta – Rupi Mangat

Published: Saturday Nation magazine 16 November 2019

It’s a quiet brook at Kalota on the tip of the delta that is Kenya’s largest, the Tana. It’s here we hop on to the boat belonging to the Ozi Community Conservation Area that is supported by Nature Kenya, the country oldest natural history society started in 1909 by like-minded naturalist.

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Sailing Up Tana Delta

Above: Bajuni fishing boat at Kipini. Copyright Rupi Mangat

From the archives: January 2014

It’s 7 a.m. and we’re at the mooring bay in Kipini where the fishermen take a break from the deep sea and for their dhows and mashuas to be repaired. Their lives are centred around their fishing vessels with makeka’s spread on the sand covered with mosquito nets where they have spent the night. Local Pokomo women prepare breakfast for the men on the other side of the boats. We’re waiting for the boat to arrive from Ozi to sail us up the delta and it’s blazing hot.

Leisurely life - dhow transport sailing by villages along the river - rupi mangat - one time use only (800x600)
Leisurely life – dhow transport sailing by villages along the Tana Delta. Copyright Rupi Mangat

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