Nightlife at Siana Springs, Maasai Mara

Above: Elephant feeding in the lush swamp in Siana Springs Conservancy
Copyright Rupi Mangat

Published: Saturday Magazine 16 June 2018

 

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Spirit of the Masai Mara blending into the hills. Copyright Rupi Mangat

Nestled in the craggy hills of Ngama from where the springs that give the wildlife haven its name, Siana, the sound of water and the wind add to the drama of the day. I scan the copper-coloured bare cliffs of the hills where the leopard hides. The view of the Masai Mara from up the hills is unbelievable. Continue reading “Nightlife at Siana Springs, Maasai Mara”

Tsavo in the Rain

With the vultures watching

White-backed Vultures atop the trees by the side of the red road of Tsavo Copyright Rupi Mangat
White-backed Vultures atop the trees by the side of the red road of Tsavo Copyright Rupi Mangat

The White-backed Vultures atop the trees by the side of the red road of Tsavo give the game away. There has to be something in the sea of grass. We stop. It’s stunning scenery – a low ridge of black lava outcrop, long luscious grass topped with purple heads and one of the conical hills that make the Five Sisters. Continue reading “Tsavo in the Rain”

Chasing Chameleons on Chyulu Hills

Above: Chyulu Hills from Kilaguni Serena Lodge in Tsavo West Copyright Rupi Mangat

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Rediscovered Chyulu Hills Blade-horned Chameleon that hadn’t been seen in nearly 40 years in Chyulu Hills (and considered extinct and found by Spawls in April 2018) Copyright Stephen Spawls

“Look out for chameleons on every tree and bush,” l asked the Kenya Wildlife Service ranger as we drove very carefully through the tall lush grass growing over what is supposed to be the road. Heavy grey clouds sat atop the stately peaks of the Chyulu Hills draped luscious green.

The ranger looked at me incredulously.

Continue reading “Chasing Chameleons on Chyulu Hills”

Vuria

Searching for the skulls caves in Taita Hills

Published: 12 May 2018 Saturday Nation magazine Nation newspaper, Kenya

Above: Taita Hills – the magical mist mountains – copyright Rupi Mangat

The plan is to enjoy the indigenous forest of Vuria. I have no intention of puffing up to the peak which is the highest of the Taita Hills and the highest point at the coast reaching 2,228 metres (7,310 ft). But we lose the group in the forest. Trying to find it, we’re on the peak a few hours later, looking at the plains below. The mission was to search for the legendary skull caves of the Taita people.

Continue reading “Vuria”

Time travelling through Olorgesailie

The fascinating metropolis of ancient ancestors

Above: Mt Olorgesailie decked in cloud and wild flowers – copyright Rupi Mangat 5 May 2018

Published: Saturday magazine Nation newspaper 5 May 2018

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Dry weather in November 2017 – Mt Esakut from Olorgesailie – copyright Rupi Mangat 5 May 2018

I’m alone walking between two ancient volcanoes on sands that have weathered the times and bleached white by the relentless sun with volcanic rubble strewn around. Tiny white flowers and petals of yellow on skeletal green stalks that otherwise are so brittle during the dry season carpet the ground.

I’m at Olorgesailie, home of our ancestors, the upright human or Homo erectus who walked out of Africa and into the bigger world a million years ago.

In my aloneness my mind begins to wander. Continue reading “Time travelling through Olorgesailie”