Faceted City – Nairobi

Published Saturday magazine Nation media 22 July 2017

Above: Models in elaborately beaded costumes from Cameroon at African Heritage House – Picture copyright Gilbert Otieno

The old train streams out on the century-old metal sleepers of what was then the Uganda Railway. Leaving Nairobi Railway Station that is a historical building, the train slowly passes by a city that a hundred years ago was filled with swamps, grasslands and wildlife like rhino and lions. Continue reading “Faceted City – Nairobi”

Castle Forest Lodge

Kerugoya

A walk on Mount Kenya – mystical, magical

Published Saturday Magazine, Nation newspaper 1 July 2017

Above Castle Forest Lodge built in 1910 – the original house Copyright Rupi Mangat

The tarmac road comes to an abrupt end at the gate of Kenya Forest Service – Castle Forest Lodge. The contrast between the flat green carpet of tea fields and the miasma of natural forest on Mount Kenya’s eastern slopes is sudden.

Continue reading “Castle Forest Lodge”

Cranes of Ol Bolossat

Published Saturday magazine, Nation media 17 June 2017

Above: Grey Crowned Crane on its nest
Copyright: International Crane Foundation / Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership

The only big lake in central Kenya is one of the last strong hold of the gorgeous Grey Crowned Crane

Flock of Grey crowned cranes by Lake Ol Bolossat in the shadows of the Aberdaresin central Kenya Copyright Rupi Mangat
Flock of Grey crowned cranes by Lake Ol Bolossat in the shadows of the Aberdares in central Kenya Copyright Rupi Mangat

It’s busy, busy, busy with 500 Grey Crowned Cranes in front of us pecking for grains on the recently harvested wheat field by the shores of Lake Ol Bolossat stretched in the shadows of the Aberdares.

Grey Crowned Cranes pair for life Courtesy: International Crane Foundation / Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership
Grey Crowned Cranes pair for life Courtesy: International Crane Foundation / Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership

“The Grey Crowned cranes are here all the time,” tells George Ndung’u, founder of the Nyahururu Bird Club, Olbolossat Biodiversity Conservation Group and of recent, the Crane Conservation Volunteers.

Continue reading “Cranes of Ol Bolossat”

On the Isles of Lamu – Pate Island

Part 3 of 3

Published 3 June 2017 Saturday magazine Nation media

It’s a dream world.

We sail past a forest of the tallest mangrove trees that l’ve ever seen. Sparkling white sand bars appear in the low tide. It’s an endless blue planet from where we are when suddenly a dolphin slips in and out – too far to tell what species it is.

Captain Lalli, of Kenya Wildlife Service Maya Mangat and Kiki Aarts of Subira House Lamu - picnic at sea sailing to Pate island Copyright Maya Mangat
Captain Lalli, of Kenya Wildlife Service Maya Mangat and Kiki Aarts of Subira House Lamu – picnic at sea sailing to Pate island Copyright Maya Mangat

Towards midday Captain Lalli stops to refuel the tank and produces delicious, juicy mangoes – an impromptu picnic on the ocean.

Sailing on, he points to Faza, then Ndau – once powerful and independent sultanates on the island of Pate. We pass a Kenya Navy patrol dinghy and then get off at Mtangawanda, a tiny ‘port’ so named because it has black sand on its shores.

Continue reading “On the Isles of Lamu – Pate Island”

On the Isles of Lamu

Kiunga Marine National Reserve

Part 2 of 3

Published 27 May 2017 Saturday magazine, Nation newspaper

Arriving at Mkokoni village by Kiunga Marina National Reserve
Saiiling to Mkokoni village by Kiunga Marina National Reserve Copyright Maya Mangat

A grand sweep of the bay edged by fascinating sand dunes tower the ocean’s chalk-white beach. We’re in sight of Kiwayu, one of the smaller islands opposite the KWS headquarters of Kiunga Marine National Reserve. It’s taken us two hours to sail here in a speedboat from Siyu on Pate island.

In the late afternoon, stepping ashore at Mkokoni village named after the mangrove trees  – it’s quaint lined with swaying coconut trees and makuti-thatched huts of the Bajuni. The men are out at sea with only the women, children and the elders.

Continue reading “On the Isles of Lamu”