Above: Beautiful beach by Diamonds on Manda Island opposite Lamu island on Kenya coast. Copyright Rupi Mangat
Diamonds on Manda Island facing the sand dunes of Shela on Lamu island Copyright Rupi Mangat
The ocean tide flows in from the deep sea in the late afternoon putting aside any thought of visiting the little-known fort at the tip of the channel between the isles of Lamu and Manda – unless we want to battle the ocean current. Continue reading “Diamonds on the Beach”→
Published Saturday Magazine,Nation newspaper 5 August 2017
“This part of town was called Utukuni,” states Hadija Ernst of Save Lamu, a coalition of 36 local NGOs to promote Lamu’s sustainable development, while protecting its culture, history and natural resources.
Utukuni in Kiswahili means market. “It was a market street where the merchants had their warehouses.”
Rooftop Nyota House Photo: Maya Mangat
Rooftop view of Lamu from Nyota House Photo: Maya Mangat
Inside garden of Swahili House Museum with the central well to draw fresh water Photo: Maya Mangat
Century-old oral rag house of the Arabs – copyright Rupi Mangat
Graves of the ancestors by the century-old oral rag house of the Arabs – copyright Rupi Mangat
Wasini Island from across Shimoni on mainland South Coast near Kenya-Tanzania border – copyright Rupi Mangat
A dug-out canoe sails to the dhow anchored in Wasini Channel to paddle me to the shores of the island. In a few minutes we’re on the ancient island of fossilized coral. Wasini once a little village of makuti-thatched coral rag single-storey houses now has a few multi-floored brick buildings coming up. The century-old, ‘Arab’ houses are beginning to crumble and replaced with modern brick.
Kaole Restaurant – copyright Rupi Mangat
Cassava in coconut milk – copyright Rupi Mangat
-Husni the waiter with a plater of crabs – copyright Rupi Mangat
Our first port of call is to the island restaurant Kaole. Plate after plate of mouth-watering Swahili dishes waft out of the deceptively simple kitchen of the restaurant on coral rag floor and four walls with open frontage to the channel. We’re fed on crab delivered on wooden platters which Husni the waiter knocks the shell open to show diners how to tease the meat out. The table fills with spiced seaweed with chapatti, ‘wali’ and cassava cooked in coconut milk and more. We eat to our fill with the ocean breeze cooling the afternoon temperatures.
Yummy Crabs at Kaole restaurant – copyright Rupi Mangat
Modern Wasini houses – copyright Rupi Mangat
Stroling through the village – copyright Rupi Mangat
Above: Coconut trees in the lawns by the Indian Ocean – picture copyright Rupi Mangat
An osprey soars over the jagged tooth of the cliff, on the lookout for a fish from the ocean. I take off from my perch at the sunken bar facing the blue ocean to follow its course but the raptor has vanished into thin air.
Amphitheatre for a nice big happy Kenyan wedding by the Ocean – picture copyright Rupi Mangat
Lavish lawns of Amare Tiwi- picture copyright Rupi Mangat
Serene spot in the banda at Amare Tiwi- picture copyright Rupi Mangat
Sunken bar by the beachl picture copyright Rupi Mangat
My plate, the Ploughman’s lunch is an artist’s delight with the colours of freshly picked salad, a chunk of cheese, cold ham and a wholesome slice of bread and sauces. We’re dining al-fresco on the lush lawns of the Ranch House Bistro in sight of Oloidien, the little lake that goes from fresh to salty depending on the levels of its neighbour, the fresh water Lake Naivasha. At this point this little lake is fresh, filled with fresh-loving water birds instead of the crimson-coloured flamingos that relish the algal bloom when the lake’s salty.