Safari Stories

Lukenya’s Panorama of a 360 world

Above: On Lukenya ridge. Copyright Rupi Mangat

Published: Saturday Nation magazine 30 November 2019

On the ancient granite rock-filled ridge of Lukenya, it’s a 360-degree view of Africa. A mountain climber from the Mountain Club of Kenya is scaling a vertical wall of an immense rock face, his tiny figure carefully inching his way up as we drive from the plains to the top of the hill that is a feature on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway.

Close up of the cliff face of Lukenya belonging to the Mountain Club of Kenya. Copyright Rupi Mangat one time use only (800x600)
Close up of the cliff face of Lukenya belonging to the Mountain Club of Kenya. Copyright Rupi Mangat

It’s on this rocky crop that our ancestors lived in the era of Stone Age, a perfect spot where the caves became homes and the plains below a rich hunting ground for food. For us modern sapiens it’s simply amazing to be stepping on the same rocks as our good old ancestors and be fortunate to marvel at the beauty of space around us.

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Visiting an Orma Village in Tana Delta

Above: Orma at a wedding ceremony

Published: 23 November 2019

It’s twilight, that magical moment when the sun has travelled the sky to end the day. In that golden moment we’re on the banks of the Tana before it branches out into the famed delta by the same name.

The Tana River where the critically endagnered Tana River Red colobus monkeys arefound near Garsen. Copyright Rupi Mangat (800x600)
The Tana River where the critically endangered Tana River Red colobus monkeys are found near Garsen. Copyright Rupi Mangat

The river is calm. The dugout canoe is tied to a pole on the opposite bank for no one will cross during the night. Tall borassus palms straddle the banks like monoliths, their strong trunks silver in the evening light and the fan-shaped leaves slightly rustling with the breeze.

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From Kalota to Kipini on Tana Delta

Above: From the arch of the mosque near Fumo Liyogo’s grave near Kipini on the tip of Tana Delta – Rupi Mangat

Published: Saturday Nation magazine 16 November 2019

It’s a quiet brook at Kalota on the tip of the delta that is Kenya’s largest, the Tana. It’s here we hop on to the boat belonging to the Ozi Community Conservation Area that is supported by Nature Kenya, the country oldest natural history society started in 1909 by like-minded naturalist.

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Lake Elmenteita Wildlife Sanctuary Under Power Struggle

Above: Pylon being erected near Lake Elmenteita. Copyright Rupi Mangat

Published: Daily Nation 6 November 2019

In the name of ‘development’

It’s mid-morning by the salt-crusted shores of Lake Elmenteita. A flock of Great White Pelicans lift off the islands on the lake in animated ribbons, circling higher and higher on the hot air thermals to fly off to Lake Naivasha or Lake Nakuru. They will spend the day on the lakes on either side of Elmenteita and return at dusk to settle on the islands for the night.

Great white pelicans herding fish for breakfast. Copyright Rupi Mangat
Great white pelicans herding fish for breakfast. Copyright Rupi Mangat

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Groundbreaking Research Dolphins and Whales in Tanzanian Waters

From the archives: February 2015 

Above: Spinner Dolphin on the Tanzania Indian Ocean. Copyright Gill Braulik

Published in The East African Nation Media 27 Feb 2015

It’s exciting talking to Dr Gill Braulik who for the last 18 years has been following dolphins and whales around the Indian Ocean. In a few days time, she will set sail for six weeks in a catamaran with her team of seven scientists – all females in the top echelon – to survey the Tanzanian coastline for dolphins and whales – 3000 kilometers with a few more added in for the islands of Pemba and  Mafia. It’s the first time that such a survey is being carried out in Tanzanian waters.

Dr Gill Braulik on Misali island in the Pemba Channel Tanzainia. Copyright Rupi Mangat (640x800)
Dr Gill Braulik on Misali island in the Pemba Channel Tanzania. Copyright Rupi Mangat

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